Gabriele Moroni has climbed his 3rd 9a, Toni Lamiche's Condé du choc. I asked him a few questions about it.
Can you describe the route?
'Condé de choc' is a very nice granite route in the alpine crag of Entraygues near Briançon. It's basically two hard boulder problems with a good rest in between them. The first boulder is at about 8A or 8A+ bloc with a very big throw from a very bad LH pinch and a RH slopey finger lock to a good edge. The dyno is ok, but the hard part is to held the huge swing! After that there is a good rest. The second boulder is longer(11 moves) and less intense but the moves are so weird. I can grade this part 8b route or 7C bloc.An 8A into an 8b/7C. Does this mean the hard part is over once you've done the 8A? What was the redpoint crux for you?
Luckily, once I did the hard move of the first part I didn't fall on the second part. But the climbing is still very hard and you can easily fall at every move...even at the very last that is another small dyno.© Lamiche archive
If you compare it to the other 9a's you've climbed, and to your own 'Elimenti di disturbo', what can you say?
Since I only climbed three 9a's now I think I still haven't settled the grade. But I can say 'Condé de choc' could be compared to the other two 9a's [Sankukai and Action directe] I climbed... more or less. I think 'Elementi di disturbo' is a bit easier... but not much. But since it's a first ascent I preferred to stay a bit tight with the grade ;-)Are you ready for the next level now?
I don't know if I'm ready or not but now I'd like to climb a longer 9a.Thanks a lot Gabri!
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