UKC

Sendtember has arrived

© François De Flaugergues

Looking at the sends of the first week-end in September, one could suspect everyone had a dead-line. For Daniel, Dave and the rest operating up in the Wolverine land at Lincoln Lake, it's actually true, with the road closing on the 21st of this month and 5 or so projects around 8B+-C still to be completed...

Regardless of how it goes, the boys have a plan however.

More bouldering? Nope.

They're unleashing their power on some leashed climbing and Jumbo love is high on the list. Quite a contrast, no?

There's been plenty of action on this side of the pond too. Especially in France, where 4 routes in the 9th degree were climbed this week-end. As usual, a certain Adam Ondra was responsible for half of the ascents, both of which were FA:s, bolted by Sylvain Millet and at Céüse. The first one, l'étrange ivresse des lenteurs is 40m tall and weighs in around 9a+ or so, while the other one is a new variation of the classic Le Cadre, called Cadre nouvelle version (how imaginative!) and was given 9a.

At La Balme, 15 year old Geoffray De Flaugergues made the 3rd ascent of Mathieu Bouyoud's Shortcut which links an ~8c/+ to an 8b+ to produce a 9a. This was Geoffray's 2nd of the grade.

At Entraygues, Gabri Moroni made the 2nd ascent of Toni Lamiche's Condé de choc, which adds a boulder 8A start to Deltaplaman man directe, 8b, bumping the grade up to 9a.

Source: http://kairn.com/news_escalade~72880.week-end-sous-signe-9-editee.html?#n72880
photo
Geoffray Flaugergues
© François De Flaugergues

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7 Sep, 2010
I don't know if anyone is working it at the moment, but Daniel Woods told me he and Dave Graham have plans to go and try it.
7 Sep, 2010
Good time of year for Clark, it will be beautiful up there. Mick
7 Sep, 2010
I'm off to Cali in about 2-3 weeks, planning 1 week at J-Tree and 1 week sport climbing somewhere. Is there enough worth doing at Clark Mountain in the range 11-13a to make the trip there? Thanks.
7 Sep, 2010
7 Sep, 2010
is there actually anyone in the bottom picture?
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