UKC

The God Delusion (IX,9) Repeated

© petemacpherson
Pitch 4 The God Delusion  © petemacpherson
Pitch 4 The God Delusion
© petemacpherson, Dec 2010

2nd Ascent The God Delusion IX,9  © petemacpherson
2nd Ascent The God Delusion IX,9
© petemacpherson, Dec 2010
Another big repeat for Pete Macpherson and Martin Moran came earlier this month when the pair teamed up to climb The God Delusion (IX,9) in Coire nan Fhamhair, Beinn Bahn, Scotland. This follows swiftly on from their repeat of The Secret and their new route Omerta (UKC News).

The God Delusion, which was first climbed on the 10th of December 2008 by Pete Benson and Guy Robertson (see UKC News) tackles the frighteningly steep wall next to Moran's infamous route The God Father (VIII,8) from back in 2002.

Moran has written an excellent and gripping account of this recent ascent of The God Delusion on his blog:

"Forget the notion of easy introductory pitches on Beinn Bhan. As soon as you are five metres up this wall you feel exposed and committed. The angles of rock and turf prove steeper than imagined and decent protection is hard to find. I scuttled up a chimney, traversed a terrace then tufted a short wall to a poor stance. The second pitch looked like an elegant ramp, but harboured a desperate mantelshelf on to an overhung ledge that jolted our confidence. We were now in the heart of the blank lower walls..."

Full story - Martin's Blog.

For a full UKC Article on an attempt at The Godfather - check out Es Tresidder's Meeting the Godfather.

Martin and Pete saying their prayers!  © Pete Macpherson
Martin and Pete saying their prayers!
© Pete Macpherson

photo
Martin Moran a little tired on the summit after The God Delusion
© Pete Macpherson

For a free full resolution topo of Coire nan Fhamhair - go to this Rockfax Page


Pete Macpherson runs the Macpherson Mountaineering Shop in Inverness.

Martin Moran is a fully qualified Mountain Guide and offers courses, guiding and instruction.


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15 Dec, 2010
Awesome stuff. Seems like they made pretty quick time too.
15 Dec, 2010
What a fantastic way with words Martin has! "While Pete squatted in his tiny alcove cursing and swearing like a demented Troll" The piles will do that to you :-) Inspirational stuff from these two and it's only mid December.
15 Dec, 2010
Highly recommend a read of Martin's blog linked in the article. Very inspirational stuff!
15 Dec, 2010
Surely a Red Bull aided ascent is unethical in these enlightened times?
15 Dec, 2010
Your name is Calum Nicholl and I claim my 'Drytoolers Guide to Grit' as a prize. ;-)
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