UKC

Monday round up

© Dufraisse coll.

Not an overly busy week this one, but a couple of things are definitely worth mentioning and one video worth posting

In Spain, Tom Bolger is going from strength to strength. The other day, with his confidence boosted by his success on Ciudad de dios, he onsighted his first 8b+, L'mens at Mont Sant: "The route went really well, I had to battle and there was definately a couple of moves were it felt really close, but I managed to stay relaxed and keep my head together right until the chains, keep those thoughts of "I'm going to do it" at bay".

Also in Spain, Alizée Dufraisse repeated the technical Renegoide, 8b+, in the Campi Qui Pugui sector at Siurana.

Moving over to France, Remy Bergasse has done his first 9a. Déséquilibre Technique Naturel or DTN was a project bolted by Paul Dewilde in the Graffiti sector at Roquevaire and links the start of an 8b/+ into the second part of an ~9a+ project with a 4 move crux sequence on micro holds, which weighs in around 8A by its own right.

To finish this round-up off, here's a video of Jorg Verhoeven doing Mandala sd, 8B, at Bishop. This is for all of you wishing you were in warm and sunny California instead of miserable.. where ever you are. Enjoy!

Sources: Kairn, Tom Bolger and Rèmy Bergasse


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24 Jan, 2011
Not an overly busy week? I'll have you know I've onsighted two 'proper' hvss and managed 15 long arm chin ups in my shed...speak to me next time you need a story, onsight 8b+....quite good but 15 long armers...think on.
24 Jan, 2011
Loved the Mandala video - just a wee bit of snow.
24 Jan, 2011
Adam Ondra climbed Prsty v ohni (8B+ boulder problem) in Petrohrad on saturday. A couple of pics: http://www.climb.sk/article.php?action=show&link=2011012411 Google Translate says the name of the problem translates to "Fingers on fire".
24 Jan, 2011
Great vid, stunning view, but I am glad my spotters are a little more attentative than his, even when I am 12 inches off the ground let alone 25!
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