UKC

Two New Technical 10's for Scottish Winter

© petemacpherson
Extremely steep on King of the Swingers  © petemacpherson
Extremely steep on King of the Swingers
© petemacpherson, Jan 2011

Pete McPherson and Martin Moran have made the first winter ascent of King of the Swingers (VIII,10) on Beinn Eighe.

photo
Guy Robertson on the first winter ascent of Crazy Sorrow (IX,10)
© Pete Benson

Guy Robertson and Pete Benson have made the first winter ascent of Crazy Sorrow (IX,10) on the Tough-Brown Face on Lochnagar.

Pete commented on the route to UKC:

"Guy pulled out a stunning lead styling over the roof and coolly climbing the demanding pitch above which must have been pretty daunting given the crack was choked with ice.  While the ice may obscure some gear placements, it is this ice that makes these climbs possible and so intriguing."

The route, a summer E4, was attempted in winter by the late Alan Mullin in 2002. Mullin climbed the crux pitch, but then abseiled off.

  • You can see more photos of the route on Pete's Flickr page.

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14 Jan, 2011
Picture of the Alan Mullin attempt here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=4693
14 Jan, 2011
Vow!
16 Jan, 2011
As I understood it, Alan Mullin did the first ascent of Crazy Sorrow. He just chose to finish the route after the crux pitch. He should still be credit with the first ascent. Diff
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