UKC

Adam Ondra takes onsighting into the next realm

© 9b
Adam Ondra on La Capella, 9b  © 9b
Adam Ondra on La Capella, 9b
© 9b

Adam Ondra has done it again. Yet again he manages to stun the climbing world. It would seem the one month break from climbing a couple of months back didn't make him weaker...

In two days at Etxauri (Navarra in the Basque area of Spain - UKC Logbook), he onsighted two 8c+'s, one 8c and one 8b+. The 8c+'s were Kidetasunaren balio erantsia and Bizi euskaraz, which previously has been done in the same style by Patxi Usobiaga. According to witnesses he didn't even take his shoes off between the onsights of Fuck the police,8c, and Tekken, 8b+.

The grade has been onsighted before, by Patxi, but doing it twice in two days is something new, and it shows Adam is now moving forward and leavingit up to everyone else to try to keep up with the young Czech.

Obviously you will hear more about this as soon as I know more

Source: Desnivel

Here's a comment from Adam:

I can´t believe it myself honestly. I wanted to warm up the first few days to get used to onsighting on the rock, but I tried one 8c and did with relative ease. Thus I went for an 8c+ and sent it too.

Yesterday, I hesitated but in the end mustered all my audacity and power to "Bizi Euskaraz", which was the main goal. I felt nervous, but strong all the way on the route except the very top where I messed it up.
I am not sure if I climb significantly better than ever, Extauri is definitely my style, but I definitely feel the pure power now, I can get out of mistakes that would have been surely fatal in the past.

Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Montura, La Sportiva, Beal and Hudy Sports


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8 Mar, 2011
I have to say, I often find these lowdown reports tedious and very un-newsworthy. But this is just flippin ridiculous. In two days, he redpointed what is a lifetime of redpoint achievement for a very very good climber. Staggering.
8 Mar, 2011
Correction, he onsighted(!!) what would be a lifetime's worth of redpoint achievement for 99.99% of sport climbers!
8 Mar, 2011
I think the lowdown reports may not seem newsworthy sometimes because Ondra is just so far ahead of the game. If he wasn't doing all the hardest sport routes in the world so quickly and easily then I think the everyday reports about other 'normal' people would seem more impressive. Maybe he needs a handicap to bring his achievements in line with everyone else so we can try and get some perspective back! ;-) It'll be interesting to see what he thought of the grades for these routes though, given that he's not shy of the odd downgrade.
8 Mar, 2011
Really? "French Girl goes on a trip to the Buttermilks; she hasn't done anything yet but she might do" is newsworthy?!
8 Mar, 2011
I would have thought so.
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