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Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress Danger

© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress: North Side  © Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress: North Side
© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L

A large crack has recently opened up at the top of Castle Rock of Triermain's North Buttress in the Lake District (UKC Logbook) and it would appear that a chunk of rock the size of a small bungalow has shifted outwards about 7 cm. Climbers are asked to avoid the North Buttress of Castle Rock for the time being.

The crack runs horizontally across the top of the crag for a distance of about 7m from the belay tree (which is growing out of it) at the very top of North Crag Eliminate/Left-Hand Finish of Overhanging Bastion. Following it down to the left (north) of the tree it can be seen to run down the wall for about 15m before disappearing out of sight under a bulge. If followed to the right (south) over the edge of the crag it narrows but can be followed down more or less the line of the Original Finish of Overhanging Bastion (i.e., straight above the yew belay at the top of the gangway pitch). It is not yet known how much further it continues down the crag or whether there is a horizontal fault line linking it all up. At various points along the crack there is evidence of fresh rock scars and also places where the rock has pulled away from the overlying moss.

Ali enjoying climbing in the sun  © na1
Ali enjoying climbing in the sun on Slab Route at Castle Rock. © na1

It is not known at present whether the buttress is now stable or whether there is a danger of more movement. The problem will have to be discussed with United Utilities who own the crag. Meanwhile it is suggested that climbers temporarily avoid the North Buttress of Castle Rock and avoid walking underneath it until a professional crag survey into its stability has been carried out.

Photos below by Stephen Reid and Steve Scott.(click on the photos to make them bigger)

Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 1  © Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 1
© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 2  © Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 2
© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 3  © Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 3
© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 4  © Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 4
© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 5  © Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 5
© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 6  © Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 6
© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 7  © Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 7
© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 8  © Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L
Castle Rock of Triermain North Buttress 8
© Stephen Reid (FRCC Guidebooks Committee) and Steve Scott (BMC L

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22 Jul, 2011
Let me know when it falls off .May return from US for the new routes on what's left.
22 Jul, 2011
Damn, I almost did Overhanging Bastion again a few months ago for old times sake. Wish I had now! The new Eastern guide is going to be rather out of date after this, sadly
22 Jul, 2011
Looks like a splendid new route. If someone gets on it, please do film...
22 Jul, 2011
Think the BMC could be very pro active here, by hosting possibly the biggest boulder trundle session ever seen in the lakes ;) As always though, concise reporting from Stephen & Steve.
22 Jul, 2011
Bomber gear though ...
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