New Font 8A+ on Yorkshire Grit by Tom Peckitt

Tom Peckitt has added another hard problem to Yorkshire Gritstone with an ascent of Toe-Fu at Simon's Seat.

Walking up to the crag in summer heat yesterday, Tom wasn't full of hope for succeeding on the problem, however when he arrived at the crag the cloud cover was thick, the breezy chilly and the rock as grippy as on any winter day.

Tom Peckitt - Toe-Fu - 8A+ at Simon's Seat  © Tom Peckitt Collection
Tom Peckitt - Toe-Fu - 8A+ at Simon's Seat
© Tom Peckitt Collection

Tom told us:

"Toe-Fu (probably around 8a+ but definitely morpho) involves holding a slopey ramp and large undercut pocket to start then wildly flinging a toe about six feet to the arete. With the toe hook still on, a full span lunge to a decent finger slot follows. At full span, you need to dyno into a very awkward pocket in the underside of the roof, which is probably the crux. A comparatively easy but dropable top out follows, trending towards the top of the "trunk" feature.

I have to say I'm made up with this. It's an inspiring line and very unusual moves, certainly for grit. To have such good conditions in British summer time was also something I was very glad to capitalise on!"

Tom Peckitt is sponsored by Evolv , prAna and Metolius

Tom would also like to thank City Bloc and Banana Fingers for their support.

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20 Jul, 2011
What is meant by morpho? as in ... (probably around 8a+ but definitely morpho)....? Never heard it before.
20 Jul, 2011
Reach dependent... Pretty much in this case, unless you can reach the hold without cutting loose, it will be much harder.
20 Jul, 2011
Ah right, thanks for that. Live and learn.......
20 Jul, 2011
It means problem is very height specific and consequently could feel much harder. Generally used when problems are "lanky" but can also apply if a problem is very bunched and therefore easier for the short.
20 Jul, 2011
is it a shortened version of another word?
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