UKC

Bob Hickish - Hard New Routes - E8 and 8c

© Rockfax
As picked up on the UKC Recent Top Ascents Page:

Bob Hickish has added a hard new sport route to Blackers Hole in Dorset. His new 8c route Endeavour is described:

35m. Start up Infinite Gravity to level with the 10th bolt, swing out left past a large hanging spike and underneath the big roof to deposit you at the bottom of the hanging 30 degree orange wall that makes the other side of the huge ships prow. Climb this with hard moves on pockets to join the Laughing Arthur roof crack half way along. Finish rightwards along this to the belay at the end of Laughing Arthur pitch 2.
FA. Bob Hickish 15/Sep/2011

The routes in Blacker's Hole, Dorset  © Rockfax
The routes in Blacker's Hole, Dorset
© Rockfax

Hickish is no stranger to Blackers Hole, having been part of the team that re-equipped and climbed Laughing Arthur back in November 2010 (UKC News).

Hickish, climbing with Dave Pickford, has also added an E6 to Blackers Hole and an E8 to the very steep crag of Berry Head.

The E6, The Aquatic Ape, is a three pitch route tackling the pillar and roof left of Schwarzchild Radius. There's a full route description in the UKC Logbooks.

The E8 at Berry Head, called Cro-Magnum, is a line that Dave Pickford had been eying up for some years. Bob took the reins and led this wild pitch.

Pickford commented:

"The name, Cro-Magnum is a pun on Cro-Magnon. The route is E8 6c - it's a horizontal French 8a on spaced gear and rotten pegs!"

The route is described:

4 pitches. The old aid route/project underneath the roof pitches of Caveman. From the belay at the end of pitch 1 of Caveman, traverse horizontally rightwards for 8m to a big niche. Swing round the corner into a smaller niche with in-situ thread. Make hard moves rightwards, under two very old pegs, to arrive at a semi-rest (another old peg up to the right). Make tricky moves 3m upwards into the red rock strata, then make the crux moves rightwards on small holds (a final old peg) to a large rail, swing along this to then rock over the lip onto the slab and move rightwards to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Depth Charge. Finish as for Depth Charge.
FA. Bob Hickish & Dave Pickford 10/Sep/2011


This post has been read 8,760 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

21 Sep, 2011
)
21 Sep, 2011
8c in Dorset. Pretty momentous day.
21 Sep, 2011
Good stuff! Berry head ranks fairly highly in my favourite places to climb! Does anyone one know whether the other E8 has been repeated there??
21 Sep, 2011
Pretty sure Ken Palmer has done Cocoon (E8 6c)
21 Sep, 2011
Yes he did, I remember him repeating it in the 90's. 8a on dodgy pegs
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest