UKC

Koyamada and Keller at Sustenpass

© Ikuko Serata

Until crisper conditions arrive at Magic wood and Ticino, Dai Koyamada has gone up on altitude, to Sustenpass 2300m above sea level in the Swiss Alps.

Dai Koyamada on "Paradise lost", 8B/+, Sustenpass  © Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada on "Paradise lost", 8B/+, Sustenpass
© Ikuko Serata

Guided by friend and [sort of] local Martin Keller, Dai has repeated some difficult problems and made a first ascent.

The last couple of days I have been climbing in the Sustenpass, it is really good temperature!
During two days of climbing there, I completed one open project. The new problem is in the area of Steingletscher of Sustenpass. It starts from Fruchte des zorns, 8A/A+ and links into Machine gun, 7C+/8A. It was a really nice one! I felt 8B/B+. I named it Paradise lost.

On the next day, I did Sputnik, 8B, [in very quick time] which is also a really wonderful line.

I saw a comment from someone who wants to see a movie of my ascents and I just wanted to say I have movies of all my ascents and am going to release them in some kind of work.

Something to look forward to!

photo
Dai Koyamada and Martin Keller talking beta in front of Traumland and Ikarus
© Ikuko Serata

Meanwhile, Martin Keller had a really crap day, feeling super weak. But as the perfect conditions arrived towards the evening, he couldn't resist a "training go" on his looong standing Highlander-project. To his own big surprise

...my "training"-go ended up with me repeating Ikarus, 8B+, and going down on the second last move of the Highlander-project cause of a slipping toe-hook - BAMMMMM!!!


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