UKC

Patagonia Action- New Route Round-Up

© sl985f
photo
Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron, Cerro Standhart from Circo de los Altares
© sl985f
There has been a lot of action in Patagonia in the last couple of months. Here are a few of the highlights, with links to more information.

Norwegians Bjørn Eivind Årtun and and Ole Lied climbed a new ice line on the south face of Torre Egger, next to Cerro Torre. The route, called Venas Azules, is 950min length, involves 350m of new climbing and is graded 6b+, A1, AI6.

Their route was described on Pataclimb as a 'King Line'.

The American/Canadian partnership of Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed a new route on the south face of Aguja de l'S. This 900m route, called The Gentleman's Club, involves 400m of new ground and is graded 7a.

An American/Argentinian team of Colin Haley and Jorge Ackermann have made arguably the first complete ascent of the South Face of Cerro Standhart. The face was first climbed way back in 1977 by Brits Brian Hall and John Whittle, but they stopped just short of the summit due to the huge ice mushrooms.

Haley and Ackermann have now made the summit via this route.

Full details and history over at The BMC website in a report by Lindsay Griffin.

Also worth a read is this interesting interview with Corrado 'Korra' Pesce on Planet Mountain. The Italian climber, based in Chamonix has been racking up an impressive Alpine CV, and has just been to Patagonia and made some impressive ascents.


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12 Feb, 2012
A fitting memento to the man. On friday 10th of January Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and his climbing partner Stein-Ivar Gravdal was found dead, hanging from the rope, hundred meters above the scree below Kjerag. Årtun and Gravdal were familiar with ice-climbing on Kjerag, in 2009 the team put up one of the most spectacular ice routes on the wall: “Strandhogg” (Beach Combing), 800 meter, WI6+, A0. (Source: http://borebloggen.blogspot.com/ )
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