SE Face of Aguja Poincenot - Via Russo

Anna Piunova

12th March, 2012

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Sergey Dashkevich and Mikhail Davy (both from Ekaterinburg), Evgeniy Dmitrienko from Rostov and Arkadiy Seregin from Moscow (all Russian) have put up a major new line on the southeast face of Aguja Poincet (3002m) in Patagonia, the closet peak to the more famous Fitzroy (3375m).

The summit team after completing the first ascent of Via Russo on SE Face of Aguja Poincenot

Via Russo 1600m (750m new) 6b (ABO) A4 M4

The line of Via Russo SE Face of Aguja Poincenot © Sergey Dashkevich — The line of Via Russo SE Face of Aguja Poincenot
© Sergey Dashkevich

The first ascent team commented:

"We put up 750m of new terrain (600m of them are really steep) on SE Face of Aguja Poincenot, then join Spereone dedli Italiani and classic line for 15 pitches more up to 6b to the summit".

The team left Chalten on Feb. 7 and climbed the technically difficult route, through poor weather, to the summit in 8 days capsule style* with a portal edge. They took a further two days to descend the Italian route and arrived back in Chalten on Feb. 19. A local guide commented that Polish, Slovenians and Russians only are the only people able to climb in such bad weather conditions.

Source Anna Piunova, www.mountain.ru