Ceuse 8b for Hazel Findlay

Hazel Findlay in Chamonix, France, 214 kb
Hazel Findlay in Chamonix, France
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Jul 2012
© Jack Geldard
Hazel Findlay has redpointed another 8b sport route with a recent ascent of Le Chirurgien de Crepuscule at Ceuse, France.

The route, known to be high in the grade, tackles a perfect wall of grey limestone just to the right of the classic 7c/+ La Femme Noire via technical and intricate climbing on small pockets. It features some run-out sections in the typical Ceuse style.

Hazel climbed the route in five attempts, finding herself at the upper slab much sooner than she had expected, and unsure of the upper slab sequence. After a few hesitant moments, she pulled it out of the bag and clipped the chains.

Hazel became the first woman to climb E9 last year with her ascent of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest, (UKC News) and also the first British woman to free climb El Capitan with her ascent of Golden Gate (UKC News). This recent ascent of Le Chirurgrien... is her fourth sport route of 8b.

About her ascent, Hazel commented on her blog:

"Last year, whilst I did Femme Noir and Femme Blanche I always looked to the right at this really nice looking 8b. I remember seeing a french kid weave his way up the wall, at one point down climbing, and at another – doing some ridiculous cross through off a two finger pocket. Anyway the route looked amazing and I was keen to give it a go.

It turned out to climb as well as it looked. It's meant to be 'hard in the grade', but I also think it's my style – small holds – so I managed to get it 5th try. I have done some other 8bs, but they were in Spain and Turkey, and grades aren't as soft in France, especially Ceuse. After Impact Day, UK trad bumbling and not doing that much climbing, it felt nice to do this route and get a bit of confidence back."

Hazel Findlay is sponsored by Black Diamond , The North Face , Sterling Rope and La Sportiva


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