Ceuse 8b for Hazel Findlay

Hazel Findlay in Chamonix, France  © Jack Geldard
Hazel Findlay in Chamonix, France
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Jul 2012
© Jack Geldard
Hazel Findlay has redpointed another 8b sport route with a recent ascent of Le Chirurgien de Crepuscule at Ceuse, France.

The route, known to be high in the grade, tackles a perfect wall of grey limestone just to the right of the classic 7c/+ La Femme Noire via technical and intricate climbing on small pockets. It features some run-out sections in the typical Ceuse style.

Hazel climbed the route in five attempts, finding herself at the upper slab much sooner than she had expected, and unsure of the upper slab sequence. After a few hesitant moments, she pulled it out of the bag and clipped the chains.

Hazel became the first woman to climb E9 last year with her ascent of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest, (UKC News) and also the first British woman to free climb El Capitan with her ascent of Golden Gate (UKC News). This recent ascent of Le Chirurgrien... is her fourth sport route of 8b.

About her ascent, Hazel commented on her blog:

"Last year, whilst I did Femme Noir and Femme Blanche I always looked to the right at this really nice looking 8b. I remember seeing a french kid weave his way up the wall, at one point down climbing, and at another – doing some ridiculous cross through off a two finger pocket. Anyway the route looked amazing and I was keen to give it a go.

It turned out to climb as well as it looked. It's meant to be 'hard in the grade', but I also think it's my style – small holds – so I managed to get it 5th try. I have done some other 8bs, but they were in Spain and Turkey, and grades aren't as soft in France, especially Ceuse. After Impact Day, UK trad bumbling and not doing that much climbing, it felt nice to do this route and get a bit of confidence back."

Hazel Findlay is sponsored by Black Diamond , The North Face , Sterling Rope and La Sportiva


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Hazel Findlay has been climbing for 20 of her 28 years, and started out trad climbing on the limestone sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire. She dabbled in competition climbing - she was the British junior champion six times - but...

Hazel's Athlete Page 44 posts 5 videos

23 Jul, 2012
She is getting a seriously impressive climbing CV. I wonder what she could do if she projected a route properly ? 5 goes is very quick. I wondered what she had been up to since Impact Day. Sounds like she has had to have a bit of recovery time. Well done.
24 Jul, 2012
I have such a crush on this girl. Great to see she has come back stronger.
25 Jul, 2012
In reply to UKC News; So good on her, she's really a talented one, excelling in many disciplines but i found her comment; ''I have done some other 8bs, but they were in Spain and Turkey, and grades aren't as soft in France.. '' bit inadequate cause being partially true, saying Spain or Turkey are soft graded is like saying in England always rain (an inaccuracy and disrespectful for the stiff graded areas in that countries).IMO