Cadarese 8b Trad Crack For Hazel Findlay

Despite desperately hot conditions that have seen most European climbers eating ice cream or heading to high north facing crags, Hazel Findlay has visited the Italian granite venue of Cadarese and climbed The Doors, a 40m crack line that when bolted (the bolts have since been removed) was graded 8b.

Hazel Findlay granite climbing in the Mont Blanc Range  © Jack Geldard
Hazel Findlay granite climbing in the Mont Blanc Range
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Aug 2012
© Jack Geldard

Check out this video of Italian climber Matteo Della Bordella climbing it after taking all the bolts out:

Hazel, a granite expert, has been ticking off classic routes close to Chamonix, but headed to Cadarese in Italy for a couple of days as a break from the mountains. She climbed The Doors after just a a few quick attempts, and suggested that the grade of 8b might be a little steep, but that the route was "One of the prettiest cracks I've ever seen, and close to 40m. 'Splitter' enough to look nice, but broken enough to have some really interesting movements."

Commenting about her ascent on her blog she said:

"So what of The Doors? I was told it was 8b, but I felt like I should try to onsight it anyway. It may not be the best idea if you want to be tactical in terms of saving energy etc, but I feel like trying these things makes you a much better climber over all, and you never know – you just might get lucky! I managed to get past the tricky start and the section of baggy fingers/ring locks, which I was quite pleased with. But then I miss-read the first proper crux and fell off in a sweaty heap..."


Hazel Findlay is sponsored by Black Diamond , The North Face , Sterling Rope and La Sportiva

 


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Hazel Findlay has been climbing for 20 of her 28 years, and started out trad climbing on the limestone sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire. She dabbled in competition climbing - she was the British junior champion six times - but...

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22 Aug, 2012
I read this the other day on her blog and was astounded by how understated she is about the whole thing. Astounding climbing.
22 Aug, 2012
A good tick. I'd disagree with her about Cadarese not being a summer crag, though. I was there exactly three weeks ago - Aug 1st - and the temperatures were fine. We even belayed with a light jacket on. OK, we weren't climbing 8b, but I'd say we probably put in as much effort! There's a heatwave in Europe at the moment and many places are 40°C, so I think that's a little more relevant.
22 Aug, 2012
Swedish Oskar Alexandersson thought 8a when he climbed it. As far as I know he has quite à lot of exp. in that grade on traditionally protected granite cracks. And it indeed looks like à super climb!
23 Aug, 2012
Can you tell me what guide book covers this area. I have been wanting to go there for ages and i am moving to Innsbruck about 5 hours away and I want to find out info for granite trading within a 6 hour drive of Innsbruck. Thanks.
23 Aug, 2012
It's in the Versante Sud guidebook - I believe it was this guidebook:http://www.versantesud.it/italiano/dettaglio.asp?id=76 You can buy the guide just for Cadarese using Versante Sud's app. Info on Cadarese also here: http://ossolaclimbing.org/node/99
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