Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, or simply "Guigui", has had a good day in Fontainebleau, repeating both Khéops assis, ~8B+, and Gourmandise, ~8B, both at Cuvier Rempart.
Guigui writes in his blog, that he, after warming up by doing some slabs, worked Thomas Willenberg's unrepeated ~8C Shiva, moved a few meters left to Khéops assis. Watching Alban Besnier, who was climbing it a few times for a photo shot, he decided to copy Alban's beta, which involved a high right heel hook. Amazingly, with the new beta he did it very quickly, and his "longest project in the forest" was done.
Not content with this he went over to Gourmandise and did that as well.
Although the latter has a lower grade Guigui felt it was a lot harder for him than Khéops assis. But, then again, that's how it is with grades. Some feel easy and some feel hard...
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet is sponsored by: adidas, Mad Rock and Snap