FRi NIGHT VID: Stamina Training Tips - James Pearson

© Wild Country
This Friday we have the first of two videos from Wild Country in which James Pearson shares his secrets for training stamina. If you don't want to get pumped at the first clip - follow James' advice!

I was interested to watch this video as I remember that a few years ago James was primarily a boulderer and hard grit headpointer, and he said himself that stamina and endurance were his biggest weaknesses. This isn't the case these days as James is now a fully blown Euro-Stamina-Monster, and regularly climbs sport routes in the high 8s. And he's still tradding of course (check out the recent UKC News). So I wanted to know his secrets!

Wild Country introduce their video:

In this two part series Wild Country athlete James Pearson delves into training for rock climbing and gives us his take on training for stamina climbs. In the videos he looks at pure endurance routes as well as power endurance routes and gives some simple, basic, techniques for training both of these.

In part one he looks at Endurance training for routes of more than 30 moves and discusses some training techniques you can use at nearly any wall. As well as this he takes in some mental and strategic pointers to help you on your way.
James Pearson has put these techniques to good use in his transition from a boulderer and short route specialist to someone who has repointed long 9a routes and plenty of other long sustained climbs too.

You can check out James's profile here:

You can also check out Wild Country's latest harness range including the superb new Eclipse (as worn by James in the video) as well as the new Blaze and Boost here:

Thanks to Neil Bentley and the Foundry Climbing Centre, Sheffield, for their help in making this training film.

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10 May, 2013
question for the training gurus: How long would you 'cycle' endurance training for. Assuming 2/3 session as week, would you expect to see any gains over 4-6 weeks? Or non linear cycles? 16 sessions as often as you can fit one in with an irregular schedule?
11 May, 2013
Depends on your goals.If you are training in between regular climbing trips or days out trying a project I would think short and sharp 4 week cycles.With plenty of resting between very hard sessions. If you are training for a distant trip on the horizon 6 weeks doing anaerobic training on say 15,30 and 50 move circuits(and rts if you have a training partner). Then perhaps 4 weeks adaption where you can focus more on specifics so if perhaps if you are training for 30-40m rts,to do this a good thing to do is to replicate similar angles and also contact time to ready the body for the 'recovery'demands of such routes. Nothing written in stone depends so much on the individual.
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