Dangerous Bolts on Welsh SlateWarning

26th March, 2014

This has been read 6,744 times

Mark Reeves Pull Testing Bolts on the Slate © Mark Reeves — Mark Reeves Pull Testing Bolts on the Slate
© Mark Reeves

Llanberis-based climber Mark Reeves has reported on his blog that many well used bolts on the Slate of North Wales have become dangerously loose.

Following a report of a bolt failure, Mark has been out testing the bolts of popular routes with several pulling out at 5kn, a very low load.

However, Mark has just informed us:

"I tested some bolts in the wet yesterday and the results were even worse, two pulled at 1kn."

The bolts that are most affected are those that get the most use, particularly lower-offs on popular routes.

It is thought that the soft slate has worn inside the bolt holes meaning the expansion bolts can move and become loose. Treat any bolt that moves with extreme caution. Resin bolts are not affected.

More information is on Mark Reeves' Website
And a report by the BMC.

This post has been read 6,744 times

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Comments

Sl@te Head

26 Mar, 2014

If UKC care for the sensitive access issues surrounding the Dinorwic Slate Quarries they will pull this news item ASAP before First Hydro read it (they do monitor our activities on UKC and the Slate Wicki). Earlier today the BMC toned down there own news item which is now closer to the truth. Jack / moderators please respect these delicate access issues and pull this news item before it causes any harm. The situation is under control with Mark doing a good job of testing, checking and replacing...no need to make out that there's a bigger problem this work can carry on quietly no need to broadcast it across the web. Ian Lloyd-Jones A concerned local slate activist

higherclimbingwales

26 Mar, 2014

Grough have also been broadcasting it with the headline: "Climbers are being warned that bolts in north Wales quarries could be dangerous and likely to fail" http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2014/03/25/north-wales-slate-quarry-climbers-warned-after-bolt-failure

TobyA

26 Mar, 2014

I guess someone ripping out a bolt that they didn't know was suspect could also cause plenty of harm. For non-locals can you explain why warning people that they shouldn't trust bolts is an access issue? I'm not sure how you balance access against the risk of someone getting hurt or worse?

higherclimbingwales

26 Mar, 2014

I beleive first hydro have been informed from what I gathered at the BMC meet last night and they are aware people are rectifying the issue.

TobyA

26 Mar, 2014

Excellent. From Mark's blog as well it's clear he's put in a huge effort to check loads as well, along with other people helping with the rebolting.

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