UKC

Potential New 8A for West PenwithVideo

© Tom Bunn

Tom in the middle of the crux of Wonderland, 8A, Priest's Cove, Cornwall  © Tom Bunn
Tom in the middle of the crux of Wonderland, 8A, Priest's Cove, Cornwall
© Tom Bunn

Cornish local, Tom Bunn has just added what may be West Penwith's first 8A boulder problem with an ascent of Wonderland, found in Priest's Cove. The problem starts up Axiomatic Sit-Start, 7A+, breaking up and left with some independent climbing, before finishing as for Dreamboat, 7B. Tom has suggested it is a 'soft' 8A.

Tom found the boulder after an abortive attempt at a new aid route, which later became The Pioneer, at Dodman Point with Alex Orr, the pair decided to check out Priest's Cove. Just before turning back they spotted the top of the boulder in the distance and decided to check it out. Tom commented on finding the boulder:

"We almost didn't bother checking it out, because how many granite overhangs in Cornwall actually have holds on them, right? To our disbelief this one was covered in just the right amount."

Tom began travelling back and picking off the easier lines on the boulder such as Axiomatic and Dreamboat, before beginning work on Wonderland. Tom spoke further about working on the Dreamboat Boulder:

"I came back a few months later with my very tolerant girlfriend Elaine and got to work establishing the first routes/ problems. Finally having done the more amenably graded problems, I started work on Wonderland. After around 5 sessions, nearly 1000 miles of driving and alot of bruised finger tips It finally happened."

Tom cranking into the Dreamboat crimps on Wonderland, 8A  © Tom Bunn
Tom cranking into the Dreamboat crimps on Wonderland, 8A
© Tom Bunn

The 16 move problem begins and ends with relatively easy climbing, but has a meaty crux in the middle involving bearing down on a sharp crimp, getting a heel hook and then bearing down even harder to get into Dreamboat. Having only climbed up to 7C+ before this problem, Tom was unsure of the grade but commented on his thoughts on the difficulty of the problem:

"Finally linking all ~16 moves together felt harder than I expected, even climbing it 1st go 'that' session. Personally it's harder than anything I've ever climbed and therefore suggest a grade of soft 8A. Wherever the grade settles, I'm just chuffed to have climbed such a truly wicked line!"

Topo showing the line of Wonderland, 8A, Priest's Cove, which is line no. 3  © Tom Bunn
Topo showing the line of Wonderland, 8A, Priest's Cove, which is line no. 3
© Tom Bunn

Tom is really keen for more experienced boulderers to get down and repeat his problem to get more of a consensus on the grade.

Tom has made a video of his ascent:

Tom is also behind RustyPeg.co.uk which features videos on South West Climbing plus free downloadable topos including one to Priest's Cove.


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25 Mar, 2014
Now that's a topo, can guidebook makers please add skull and crossbones to the top of all bold routes please, I would feel 65% more heroic
25 Mar, 2014
rustypeg.co.uk is the most fantastic name for a sea-cliff website. Good-looking line too. Well done, young man. jcm
25 Mar, 2014
Bloody Hell, I impressed JCM. That's more of an achievment than the problem! Ta ;)
25 Mar, 2014
Excellent work mate, glad to see all the hard work paid of in the end.
25 Mar, 2014
who needs a topo when those chalked holds stick out like the dog's proverbials?
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