Tonight's Friday night video is episode 4 of Stone Kingdom from Outcrop Films. This episode features Mina Leslie-Wujastyk as she attempts to climb Unfamiliar, E7/8 6c, at Stanage, ground up (UKC News Report).
Nick Brown introduces this episode:
As I was basing a series on different climbing areas of the UK, I thought it would be appropriate to film at least one episode in the heart of it all; Stanage. The crag has enough to keep everyone happy, from beginners on the crag for the first time, to the most hardened gritstone wizards. Those that are sick of the crowds can go to the far end to find solitude and if you’re in need of extra pads for throwing yourself off classic highballs, Plantation is the place.
I checked out the crag in the morning and it was soaking. I called Mina and warned her off, saying Unfamiliar was out of action for the day. With an abundance of time on her hands, she headed up anyway. Dave begun to dry the route with a few towels and after a couple of hours it was good to go.
Some of you might be aware already; this was Mina’s first trad route. Therefore, a decision was made that she definitely wasn’t placing her own gear. Who cares? The real barrier to climbing this route is the lower crux section. A highball 7c/7c+ consisting of precarious foot placements and strange, specific handholds.
Mina had one session the previous week and made short work of the bottom section this time around. After a few attempts she reached the gear breathing heavily. When grit gets wet, it gets “scrittly”, meaning small bits of the rock from the outer layer rub off under your hands, almost making it feel sandy. Obviously, this isn’t ideal when it comes to secure hand and foot holds. But, you’ll have to watch the film to see what Mina thought about all that...