First Ascent on Hagshu for Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden

© Berghaus

More than 20 years after first setting eyes on the peak and noting it as a potential objective, Mick Fowler, with Paul Ramsden, has succeeded in making the first ascent of the north east face of Hagshu.  Regular climbing partners Fowler and Ramsden completed the unclimbed face of the 6,515m mountain in the East Kishtwar region of the Indian Himalaya, before traversing it and descending by the south east ridge.  The expedition was supported by Berghaus and the Mount Everest Foundation.

Hagshu - looking along the summit ridge  © Berghaus
Hagshu - looking along the summit ridge
© Berghaus

Fowler and Ramsden initially set out to climb the north face of Hagshu and had secured the permit to make that attempt.  However, an apparent administrative mix–up provided an opening to the Slovenian team of Marko Prezelj, Luka Lindie and Ales Cesen, who were already established on the British team’s planned line by the time they were acclimatised and ready for action.  Instead, Fowler and Ramsden turned their attention to the equally appealing north east face and successfully reached the summit on 6 October.  They arrived back at base camp six days after setting out.

According to the latest Indian survey, Hagshu is the highest peak in East Kishtwar, and after numerous attempts it was first climbed (twice) in 1989.  Between then and this year, it had been attempted on several occasions, but with no success.

Hagshu  © Berghaus
© Berghaus

Mick Fowler comments:

“The call of Hagshu has been answered after more than 20 years.  Our climb of the north east face proved to be pleasingly memorable and together with a traverse of the mountain, provided a fine six day outing from base camp. Few mountains have an ascent history as curious as Hagshu.  There have been four ascents to date and - two within days of each other in 1989 and two within days of each other 25 years later.  And all of them have been by different lines. And as seems to be becoming a habit for us, Paul and I couldn’t help but spot another urge giving objective while on the Hagshu trip. We spotted Kishtwar Kailash during our ascent of Shiva in 2012, and then were reminded of Hagshu’s presence while on Kishtwar Kailash last year. Now we have spotted something else of interest while on Hagshu.  The Himalaya just keeps on giving.  It’s a great time to be a Himalayan alpinist.”

Mick Fowler climbing on Hagshu  © Berghaus
Mick Fowler climbing on Hagshu
© Berghaus

Mick Fowler is sponsored by Berghaus. During the expedition, the latest products from the Berghaus Extrem range were put to the test, including some which Fowler helped to develop with the company’s MtnHaus® innovation team. Read more about Mick Fowler and his expeditions at


Mick is sponsored by: Berghaus

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24 Oct, 2014
That's a stunning looking hill
24 Oct, 2014
'Our climb of the north east face proved to be pleasingly memorable' - Superb !!
24 Oct, 2014
Mick Fowler is some climber. Does he ever fail to climb a summit when he is on an expidition. I go to chamonix for 2 months and spend more time abseiling off existing routes than topping. He goes away for a week and just knocks out new lines everytime. Some Man, well done Mick.
24 Oct, 2014
"another urge giving objective" lol
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