UKC

Jorg Verhoeven Frees The Nose

© Louder than 11

Jorg Verhoeven on The Great Roof pitch, The Nose, Yosemite  © Louder than 11
Jorg Verhoeven on The Great Roof pitch, The Nose, Yosemite
© Louder than 11

Jorg Verhoeven, born in a small valley among the huge mountains in Holland, has become the first European to free climb The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite, first done by Lynn Hill in 1993.

Yeeeaaaaah! I freeclimbed the Nose!!! In three days time I managed to grab the 4th ascent of this iconic route. I sent the Great Roof first burn on day #2 and Changing Corners after two falls the next morning. So incredibly glad I pulled it through. A lot of respect to Lynn Hill for freeclimbing this route 20 years ago! At least the male/female statistics are equalized now Feels like a big chapter has come to an end. PSYCHED!!!

The hardest pitch of the ~900m/30+ pitches route, The Changing corners, is now given ~5.14a/8b+, but was originally given 5.13b/8a by Lynn Hill... that's quite an upgrade!

The Nose has previously been freed by Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden.

Jorg prepared for this free climbing marathon by repeating several really pumpy boulder problems in the RMNP recently. Apparently that's all you need.

Stay tuned for more about this!

Jorg is sponsored by: La Sportiva, Marmot and Petzl


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7 Nov, 2014
check the spelling of Caldwell
7 Nov, 2014
Umnn... "The Free Nose has previously been repeated by Tommy Cardwell and Beth Rodden." What about Scott Burke, sure he toproped the great roof... but lead the rest. Read more from here: http://themountainworld.blogspot.fi/2005/10/caldwell-on-burke.html
7 Nov, 2014
Jorg must be one of the best all-round climbers in the world. Any chance of an interview?
7 Nov, 2014
Whilst an amazing achievement, far greater than I will ever do, to be able to claim a full free ascent, it must be all on the lead. That is the standard for all types of climbing, trad and sport. There are many climbers who have top roped routes far harder than their best lead grade, but haven't claimed it as an ascent. Correct me if I am wrong, but that has always been the criteria for a full free ascent hasn't it? Cheers, Rich.
7 Nov, 2014
Well... Then Rodden is off the list as well... http://themountainworld.blogspot.fi/2005/10/caldwell-on-burke.html And also Hazel (albeit on a different route) has not free-climbed El Cap (contrary to how it was published as news). Food for thoughts.
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