UKC

New Route on Vågakallen

© Adam Pustelnik

In August this year Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström climbed a new route on the north face of Vågakallen, Lofoten islands in Norway. Named “The Corner Kick”, the climb follows an incredible line of dihedrals on the prominent pillar in the middle of the north face.

Five hard granite pitches through the steep headwall make up the meat of the climb. Before and after this part of the wall the route shares easier ground with the existing routes Freya (n8) and Storpillaren (n7). The tricky character of the cruxes as well as sparse protection make them demanding to redpoint. The ascent was made ground up and all free, with difficulties up to Norwegian grade 9- (f8a) and is 950 metres long in total, from bottom to summit.

photo
Vagakallen North Face Topo
© Rockfax

Report by Adam Pustelnik

The Corner Kick

We came to Lofoten with an idea of trying to free climb one of the existing aid lines on Storpillaren (Freya, Stormpillar, Genus Locy). Accompanied by blue skies we made our first shot on Genus Locy (A2+ variation of the classic Storpillaren). We spent a long day trying the sequences on the crux pitch of this line. When we finally got all the moves we were trashed. So we bailed with the thought of returning after some rest.

After a few days we changed our plans. The idea of trying the same crux pitch again seemed boring. Instead, we wanted to try the route Stormpillar (A3). But as we walked towards the wall we saw a beautiful line of dihedrals left of Freya. Because it looked quite blank in parts we thought it could be committing and maybe impossible. We didn’t think our chances of topping out were high but decided to give it a go anyway. Little did we know that this decision would lead us far outside of our comfort zones.

With gear for a one day free-ascent we started off by simulclimbing the bottom part of Freya to pitch 13, which took us a couple of hours. This is where the wall steepens and we entered new and unknown terrain. It was hard to force ourselves up the headwall because protection looked nonexistent. To access the line of dihedrals we had to round an arête. Protected by suspect micro-wires Andreas managed to get around the arête just to be kicked off by tricky moves and shaky legs. The result was a painful slide down the arête which cut both ropes to their cores. After a few terrifying falls on this section, he finally figured out the moves and managed to enter the dihedral, using all the tricks in the book. We struggled our way further up the wall in a constant state of fear due to poor protection and demanding friction climbing. Our free climbing ethics were long gone and we used any available technique to get higher.

Adam stemming up The Corner Kick  © UKC News
Adam stemming up The Corner Kick

Time passed quickly and after four hard pitches midnight was upon us. We were wrecked but still had a blank section of about 30 meters above us to reach easier ground. We could not see if there would be any good protection on the pitch above and we did not feel like going for it. Once again we decided to give up and return to camp defeated.

After the first attempt the weather changed for worse and remained unstable. We waited in hope for good weather to roll in before the end of the trip. To calm the nerves Andreas was forced to start smoking again and we drank all the alcohol we’ve had. Fortunately between showers we climbed a couple of shorter routes of great quality. Andreas tackled some first ascents in Festvåg around grade 8/8+ (f7c) and together with Martin Skaar Olslund nabbed the speed record of the classic Presten, a 400 meter wall in only 43 minutes.

Luckily after 10 days the clouds finally cleared out.

Andreas finding peace of mind at the top  © UKC News
Andreas finding peace of mind at the top

We started on our second attempt on the 8th August, this time prepared for a one night “polish style bivy” (no sleeping bag). Because the intro slabs remained wet we accessed the route by climbing a system of steep grass-ledges from the left. This approach to the route is not for the faint of heart and not preferable. We started climbing on the route from pitch 9, this time free climbing every pitch, alternating leads while the follower also free climbed everything. It was demanding and heady, especially falling repeatedly on suspect micro wires. By the time we got to pitch 16 we were at our wit’s end. Now it was time to tackle the hardest part of the wall, the crux-pitch. I started off by figuring out the starting boulder of the pitch and soon got up to the next crux, a slippery traverse under a small roof.  After quite a struggle and plenty of falls I figured out this section and climbed further believing the rest of the pitch would be easy. But as I got higher protection got worse. Caught by surprise I suddenly realized my situation and my head started spinning.

I was high above my last piece and the climbing was desperate and awkward, relying on smears. As in many places on the route, commitment is the only solution to reach easier ground. Instead of that I just stopped and started desperately shouting. I felt completely paralyzed but Andreas as a professional psychologist not only kept calm but also kept repeating “you can do it, relax, you’re safe” which was successful, relaxing therapy.

Most likely in his place I would just suggest to jump and get it over with, hoping for the best, but his method worked. I got through this part, then finished the pitch and to my big surprise free climbed the whole thing on my second go.

Now we were at our previous highpoint and I looked up at the blank wall above. We both knew the first 10 meters have almost no protection and we didn't want to experience a long factor two fall. Andreas started off, looking shaky at first but got himself together to commit through the starting run out. “Hmm spooky” was the only comment he gave as he placed the first piece of decent protection in a small seam.

Towards the end of the pitch the climbing got more desperate but with decent protection. After a few falls, which nowhere on the route were “easy” to take, Andreas switched to french-free mode to reach a nice big ledge just before dark. There we shivered through the night hoping for the sun to rise. But Vågakallen is the biggest mountain in the region. It seems all nearby clouds just get stuck around its peak, and a cold mist soon surrounded us. Waking up at 5 am, just to rappel down to try a dangerously run-out 8a was a bit of a heavy breakfast! But it was the only breakfast we had since Andreas ate all of our food the previous day.

After a great effort Andreas climbed this last hard pitch free and we continued on easier terrain just left of the last aid pitch of Freya to join with Storpillaren via which we reached the summit. Luckily the rain we feared never materialized and the rest of the day was spent walking down from Vågakallen.

View from the summit  © UKC News
View from the summit

It was a great adventure. One of the most challenging I’ve experienced and my first big climb after my accident a few years back. It would not have been possible without good team work and for sure would have been harder without support from friends. Big thanks to the following people and others who contributed to make this possible in different ways:

Robert and Daniela Jasper, with the first ascent of Freya. Oscar Alexandersson and Sindre Sæther for useful beta. Sjur Hauge who lent us key protection (offset microwires). All the friendly locals who gave us lifts along the roads and candy on descents. Finally Karolina Adamowska who supported us spiritually and most importantly nutritionally!

Adam and Andreas on The Corner Kick  © Adam Pustelnik
Adam and Andreas on The Corner Kick
© Adam Pustelnik

The Corner Kick, 9- (F8a), ca 950m to the summit, 8-9.08.2014 (26h base to summit), Andreas Klarström, Adam Pustelnik

Gear used:

  • 2-3 sets of micro nuts with offsets
  • 1 set of standard size nuts
  • Cams – single set from smallest to nr.3 BD (blue)
  • 15 quickdraws
  • Double 60m rope
  • One fixed bird beak on start of pitch 16.

Topo:

1-13. Follow Freya to pitch 13 (7-). If these slabs are wet (pitches 1-8) it’s also possible to access the route via a system of steep grass ledges from the left, though we would not recommend this approach.

13. Entry pitch, 8+, R (F7c+), 40m.:

Climb Freya for 20m. Before going right on the belay ledge climb straight up to enter the left dihedral. Just before entering the dihedral there is a flake where it's possible to place offset micro nuts. Belay on the slightly slabby part of the dihedral.

14. Stemming level 1, 8/8+ (F7c), 20m.:

Stem up the dihedral to a no hands niche.

15. Stemming level 2, 8+(F7c+), 30m.:

Up to the end of the dihedral, exit right to belay on top of slanting ledge with a fixed bird beak within reach.

16. Panic mode, 9-, R (F8a), 40m.:

Boulder stem start leads up to good protection a few meters higher. Climb right under the roof to a thin crack system (run out). Follow this up and left until reaching a big slanting ledge belay.

17. Spooky slab pitch, 9-, R (F8a), 30m.:

Climb up a small pillar/pile of blocks (bit loose), continue straight up slab (possible protection on a small block right) and traverse a bit left to reach a seam just right of the arête (good protection). Climb this to the big bivvy ledge to meet with pitch 22 of Freya.

18. Just left of pitch 22 of Freya.

Climb the back of the niche as Freya, then traverse left and a bit down to reach good holds on the face above. Climb this to a big wide crack and continue up easier terrain on Freya.

At the end of the route Freya, continue on the route Storpillaren to reach the summit.

For more information, follow the links below:


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11 Nov, 2014
Looks fantastic.
When we were putting together the Lofoten Rockfax I had some conversations with Twid Turner and Pavel Jonak about their ascents up this incredible pillar of rock. The impression I got was how massive an undertaking any route is on here. Multi-day ascents, poor bivvys and gear hauling put Storm Pillar and Freya up with some of the hardest big wall climbs in Europe, but this new route has cranked up the difficulty level to a whole new level. This really is one of the most impressive faces around and keep in mind the fact that the topo in the article is only the topo half of the route. The full wall is shown here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=248480 Alan
11 Nov, 2014
Great effort guys, glad you stuck with it :-) Chris
11 Nov, 2014
Oh wow - excellent stuff. Vestpillaren in 43 minutes is pretty mind boggling too!
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