Last year, Alex Luger made the first ascent of PsychoGramm, 8b+, just left of the more famous Prinzip Hoffnung, 8b/+ E9/10, on the Bürser Platte at Vorarlberg, Austria.
Alex, who is a Vorarlberg local, made the second ascent of Prinzip... in 2010, and comparing PsychGramm it to its neighbour, he told DMM:
For me Psychogramm felt trickier than Prinzip because of the insecure boulder-crux at the top. The boulder felt harder than the moves on Prinzip but Psychogramm is not so long and sustained.
The protection in Psychogramm is more demanding and on some sections not really trustworthy. What makes the route dangerous is the 20 metre height. If the IMP [the crux is protected with an IMP 2] pops out and the lower wire as well, you're maybe on the ground. I didn't try that one out.
I didn't give it an E-grade because I 'm not experienced in that tradition of rating climbs. As well I think the route does not need an E-grade. Everybody who wants to try it will realise the seriousness of the climb.
Alex Luger is sponsored by: adidas and DMM