Martin Keller has made what I think is the sixth ascent of Dai Koyamada's Insanity of grandeur, ~8C, at Chironico, Switzerland.
In his blog tells the whole long story from when he began trying the "wrong" start by mistake back in 2004, via his first ascent of Der mit dem Fels tanzt in 2012, and serious hamstring and knee injuries after that, to his final success this year.
Definitely a must read!
On the very last day before winter set in Martin was finally able to keep his head and all the subtle master beta together for his most difficult ascent to date.
Now, he only has one big project left on his list. A problem he has fallen off the end of soooo many times it's starting to become ridiculous: The Highlander-project up at the Sustenpass. As it sits up at 2000m elevation, it's going to be covered in snow for a long time still though, so plenty of time for Martin to prepare. This year!