UKC

IFSC European Bouldering Championship Report

Last weekend the IFSC European Bouldering Championship took place in Innsbruck, Austria and kicked off the 2015 international bouldering competition season. As usual, Innsbruck put on a show that didn't disappoint, with performances from the athletes that matched the high quality spectacle of the event. German couple Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm both took home the title of European Champion in front of an enthusiastic crowd of thousands.

photo
Adam Ondra flying in the finals
© Mark Daviet/FFME

The top 20 athletes qualified for semi-finals, with just 6 climbers (7 on countback for the women) making it to the final round. In the women's event, the absence of non-European competitors such as Alex Puccio and Akiyo Noguchi - as well as Shauna Coxsey's withdrawal from the event due to injury - left the field fairly wide open, attracting fresh new talent from younger climbers making their senior bouldering debut. Austria's Jessica Pilz made finals in her first IFSC senior bouldering event, with some other young athletes narrowly missing out on finals. 

Germany's current World Bouldering Champion Juliane Wurm stole the show and set the bar astonishingly high for the Bouldering World Cup series this year. Finishing top of the pack in the semis, confidently flashing the first two problems and making quick work of the third in the finals, Juliane had already won the competition before the last problem came around - a tricky slab which saw no successful ascent. Anna Stöhr was a close second, also managing to top 3 problems but seemingly lacking the confidence to flash them. 

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Juliane Wurm leading in the semi finals
© Mark Daviet/FFME

In the men's event, a mix of usual suspects combined with some newcomers made it through to finals. Italy's Stefan Scarperi put in a gutsy performance and amazed the crowd by completing the third problem and becoming the only man to do so, giving Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer a run for their money and knocking Jakob Schubert - who qualified in first place after semis - out of a podium finish. However, Jan stepped up his game on the powerful last problem to take the victory and add European Champion to his World Bouldering Cup title from last year. Adam Ondra took silver after battling a tough round of problems which didn't appear to suit him.

Britain's Dave Barrans and Leah Crane finished 18th and 20th respectively after making the semi-final round.

Results:

WOMEN

Rank Name Nation Qualifying Semi's Final
1 Juliane Wurm GER 3t7 5b6 3t6 3b6 3t4 4b4
2 Anna Stöhr AUT 5t5 5b5 3t7 4b6 3t7 4b8
3 Katharina Saurwein AUT 4t4 5b5 2t3 3b4 1t1 3b3
4 Monika Retschy GER 3t4 5b5 1t1 3b5 1t1 3b7
5 Jessica Pilz AUT 4t6 5b6 2t3 2b2 1t2 2b3
6 Mina Markovic SLO 4t10 4b8 1t1 2b2 1t7 2b8
7 Fanny Gibert FRA 5t8 5b6 1t1 2b2 0t 2b6
8 Charlotte Durif FRA 4t7 5b5 1t1 2b3  
9 Julija Kruder SLO 4t9 4b5 1t1 2b5  
10 Melissa Le Neve FRA 5t9 5b5 1t2 3b9  
11 Anna Gallyamova RUS 5t10 5b6 1t2 3b12  
12 Katharina Posch AUT 4t6 5b5 1t3 3b4  
13 Hannah Midtboe NOR 3t3 5b7 1t3 3b6  
14 Stasa Gejo SRB 5t7 5b5 1t3 3b11  
15 Berit Schwaiger AUT 4t4 4b4 1t4 2b3  
16 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 4t5 5b5 1t6 3b10  
17 Petra Klingler SUI 5t5 5b5 0t 3b9  
18 Mélanie Sandoz FRA 3t3 5b8 0t 2b2  
19 Yulia Abramchuk RUS 3t7 4b5 0t 2b3  
20 Leah Crane GBR 3t8 5b6 0t 2b8  

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The women's Podium: Jule Wurm, Anna Stöhr and Katharina Sauerwein
© Mark Daviet/FFME

MEN

Rank Name Nation Qualifying Semi's Final
1 Jan Hojer GER 4t14 4b13 1t1 2b2 2t3 4b5
2 Adam Ondra CZE 5t8 5b6 2t9 4b12 2t6 3b10
3 Stefan Scarperi ITA 3t3 4b5 1t2 2b5 1t5 2b6
4 Jakob Schubert AUT 4t5 5b10 2t8 3b9 1t6 3b7
5 Martin Stranik CZE 4t6 4b4 1t2 2b4 0t 4b11
6 Alexey Rubtsov RUS 5t10 5b6 2t10 2b9 0t 4b16
7 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 5t7 5b5 1t2 1b2  
8 Alban LEVIER FRA 5t8 5b8 1t3 3b6  
9 Jorg Verhoeven NED 5t8 5b8 1t4 2b11  
10 Rustam Gelmanov RUS 5t7 5b7 1t4 1b4  
11 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 4t4 5b5 1t5 2b8  
12 MICKAEL MAWEM FRA 4t4 5b5 1t6 3b11  
13 Stephane Hanssens BEL 4t14 4b11 1t6 2b11  
14 Rolands Rugens LAT 4t7 5b11 1t9 2b10  
15 Domen Skofic SLO 4t10 4b10 0t 3b11  
16 Mathias Conrad GER 3t3 5b5 0t 2b4  
17 Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA 5t7 5b5 0t 1b3  
18 David Barrans GBR 4t10 5b12 0t 1b6  
19 Gregor Vezonik SLO 4t6 5b7 0t 1b7  
20 Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor POL 4t12 4b11 0t 1b8  
23 Ben West GBR 3t7 5b12    
47 Nathan Phillips GBR 2t3 2b3    
55 Matthew Cousins GBR 1t1 3b7    
57 Orrin Coley GBR 1t5 2b3    

photo
The men's Podium: Jan Hojer, Adam Ondra and Stefan Scarperi
© Mark Daviet/FFME

Full results here. Watch a replay of the finals below:



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