Last year Jonathan Siegrist repeated Chris Sharma's über classic Biographie, 9a+, at Céüse. In May this year he went to battle again on the same crag. This time against Le Cadre nouvelle version, 9a. This version avoids the chipped holds on Le Cadre, 8c, by climbing a slightly different line.
Here's how Jonathan describes the route:
It has a little taste of everything, some sections suited me really well and others were very demanding. A classic power move (just below the one pictured), kept me coming back again and again. I'm not a dynamic or snappy climber - it's one of my glaring weaknesses - but the move was a brilliant challenge. From hanging it became easy, from just a few moves in it often felt impossible. This kind of movement, so low percentage and unpredictable, can resist for weeks. The first time I stuck the move from the ground was on Wednesday and thankfully I punched it to the finish.