UKC

Lead World Cup Chamonix - Ramon and Markovic Take Gold

© Haugeard

Last weekend saw the first round of the Lead World Cup in Chamonix. Spanish climber Ramon Julien Puigblanque just pipped Ondra to first place in the men's and Mina Markovic from Slovenia took first place in the women’s.

The men’s final was a close run thing, with Ramon matching a small penultimate hold and then leaping for the finishing jug with his left hand, but just not hanging it. Ondra, who climbed quickly up to the final few moves of the route opted to not match and made a wild cross through dyno for the finishing jug, missing it by milimetres!

Adam Ondra starts his leap for the final jug  © Haugeard
Adam Ondra starts his leap for the final jug
© Haugeard
Ondra misses the hold - putting him in 2nd place  © Haugeard
Ondra misses the hold - putting him in 2nd place
© Haugeard

The women's comp was a spectacluar affair with a technical rightwards traverse close to the top that saw most of the women falling from high on the route. Markovic looked remarkably cool on the tiny holds and cruised to victory.

Ramon climbing to first place after a shaky start  © Haugeard
Ramon climbing to first place after a shaky start
© Haugeard
Mina Markovic taking a convincing win in the women's comp  © Haugeard
Mina Markovic taking a convincing win in the women's comp
© Haugeard

Janja Garnbret from Slovenia came a close second. This teenage competition crusher has won almost every IFSC youth competition she has been in, and this is her first foray in to the senior comps. Watch this space...

There are no British competitors in the Lead series this year.

The men's podium  © Haugeard
The men's podium
© Haugeard
The women's podium  © Haugeard
The women's podium
© Haugeard

 

Full results can be seen on the IFSC Website


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16 Jul, 2015
I wouldn't describe Markovic's victory as 'convincing'. Janja Garnbret topped the final route too and mostly made it look easier than Markovic. The final result was decided by count back so that's about as unconvincing as you can get in WC. Garnbret's performance was particularly impressive given it was her first world cup and she's only 16. It was very impressive the way Domen Skofic built her up as an amazing talent as she was starting and then she totally lived up to what he said. I'm surprised by how much talent Slovenia produces for such a small country. The population is only 2 million. More than just chance?
18 Jul, 2015
Janja Ganbret is a special talent - even for Slovenia. She climbs with a fluidity that the best in the world cannot match. I had the pleasure of belaying for her in the European Youth Championships in Edinburgh. She is also extremely polite and has a delightful smile. She really does have it all and will be a superstar of female climbing for years to come. I've heard that the Slovenian lead team train through bouldering most of the time. Anyone know any more about this? The coaches are definitely doing an amazing job.
19 Jul, 2015
Interesting to see that they repeated Janja's final at Chamonix in the wait for the semi's at Briancon. Shame she wasn't in that event though and is not listed for Imst either. Hope we'll see more of her later in the season.
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