UKC

Silbergeier 8b+ for Robbie Phillips

© Robbie Phillips

Scottish climber Robbie Phillips has made the second British ascent of the 240m 6-pitch 8b+ Silbergeier in the Ratikon, Switzerland with climbing partner Willis Morris. Silbergeier is one of the most famous hard multipitch climbs in the Alps, and was first climbed by Beat Kammerlander back in the early 1990's.

The approach scramble to the base of Silbergeier  © Calum Muskett
The approach scramble to the base of Silbergeier
© Calum Muskett

Robbie was initially working the route with Australian climber Monique Forrestier a few weeks back, but poor weather conditions delayed their efforts and Willis replaced Monique after she returned home. Robbie freed the route on his first redpoint push to the top. 

The route consists of six very long and technical pitches of 8b/+ - 7c+ - 8a+ - 7a - 8b+ - 7c+ with some bold runouts. The first British ascent was made by young Welsh climber Wiz Fineron in June last year. Nina Caprez of Switzerland made the first female ascent alongside Cedric Lachat and their climb was made into an amusing short film, featured below.

Last year Robbie climbed Bellavista (X+) X+, 8b+ on the Tre Cime in the Dolomites (UKC News Report), making Silbergeier his second hard alpine multipitch ascent to date.

photo
Robbie's comments on Facebook

Robbie is sponsored by: Edelrid, Evolv, Jöttnar and Ratho - EICA

Robbie is an Urban Uprising Ambassador.


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9 Jul, 2015
Fantastic effort. However the description is misleading: He didn't free the route since the route was already free. To free a route means to dispense with existing aid points: in other words make the first free ascent. Once a route is freed it can't be freed again though if it was still aided by some parties you might say 'free-climbed' to clarify the fact. In this case it's clearer and more succinct to simply say: "Robbie redpointed the route on his first try".
9 Jul, 2015
Top effort. First British ascent of one of the Trilogy? Pedantic but true.
9 Jul, 2015
since when? I've never heard that before. I would take "he freed it" as he free climbed it, and "he made the first free ascent" as having made the first free ascent. Phenomenally, and unnecessarily pedantic comment. Where's this official dictionary of climbing terminology that makes you so sure of this definition? Well done Robbie, looks great!
9 Jul, 2015
I still agree with stp, although I wouldn't have bothered to point it out my self. But, er, first Brit ascent* of one of the alpine hard rock Big Three? And almost nobody seems to care. Am I missing something? * afaik. I may be wrong.
9 Jul, 2015
Second. Wiz Fineron did it last year, no?http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69005 But yes, very impressive, particular the quick turnaround from his former life as an out and out sport climber
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