Kletterszene reports Sebastian Halenke has onsighted La voie lactée, 8c/+, at La Balme, France. His hardest onsight to date.
Apparently Sebastian's plan was only to try and onsight the route to the first chain, but once there he figured he might as well continue up. There are to options here, left or right, but as he didn't know anything about either of them, he just picked the one he thought he looked the best.
Right away, he noticed the moves became harder, but he kept pushing, and to his relief he found himself at a no hands rest three quarters into the extension. Realising he was quite obiously on a kind of hard route, he shouted down to some locals who watching him, asking about the difficulty of the route. They told him the extension was an 8b+ in its own right and the whole thing a hard 8c/+.
Alright, Sebastian said to himself, it's now or never! He focused hard, gave the steep finish his all, and succeeded!
His first 8c/+ was in the bag.
Sebastian Halenke is sponsored by: Scarpa