Here's what he writes on facebook:
There are moments in life that are hard to write down in words. Yesterday was one of those moments. The last month of my life has completely revolved around climbing this one incredible project.
Yesterday was just one more day trying the project and it wasn't going so well. All expectations were finally out the window and it was down to one last ditch effort. The sun was dipping down behind the horizon and painting the rock red. This would be my last try.
The wind kicked up. I chalked my hands about a dozen times, like I do when I'm nervous, and pulled on the rock. I was climbing on total autopilot like I have many times through the sections. A series of screams of surprise and relief lead to the sight of my right hand grabbing onto the finishing hold! I climbed the V0 topout like it was V13.
Right there, standing on top of that boulder watching the bright orange sunset could be the most memorable climbing experience of my life!
Surely one of the very best lines I've ever opened; The Stepping Stone, somewhere around V15. Who even knows with the upper numbers anymore. Looking forward, I couldn't have asked for a better trainer for the Lappnor project!
No time to waste, I'm flying to Finland in the morning to attack it full force again! Let's see if this was the extra kick I needed to finally get the Lappnor project done!
Amazing times in Australia!! SWOOOPPP!!!