Dani Andrada repeats Chilam Balam, ~9b

Dani Andrada on Chilam balam, ~9b, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain  © David Lopez
Dani Andrada on Chilam balam, ~9b, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain
© David Lopez
Dani Andrada has repeated Barnabé Fernandez' Chilam Balam, ~9b, at Villanueva del Rosario just north of Malaga in southern Spain.

Dani's ascent was the fourth, after Fernandez (2003), Adam Ondra (2011) and Seb Bouin (2015). He and Edu Marin have been working the route for a very long time now and according to reports from the crag, they're making it look very easy up to the final few moves, which is the redpoint crux.

No matter how well you have the route dialed, unexpected things can happen though as the rock in parts of the route is quite loose. On the last attempt before his successful one, Dani decided to head butt a tufa, or perhaps it was the other way around. Either way, the tufa came off and he got a nasty cut. 

Being the máquina that he is, this didn't move him much though and on his next try, he managed to reach the top of the 80 m route.

Fernandez originally suggested 9b+ but Adam Ondra felt low end 9b was closer to the money and Seb Bouin said 9a+/b, Previously, Dani has said that he feels it deserves 9a+ rather than 9b, but that was before he had done the whole thing.

Dani Andrada  © David Lopez
Dani Andrada
© David Lopez
Now, according to Desnivel, he agrees with Seb and calls it "9a+/b or hard 9a+". He also says he found no less than 25 no-hands-rests, and that the redpoint took 1h 5 min.

Edu Marin is also very close now and any attempt could be the last, successful, one.

Photos by David Lopez

Dani Andrada is sponsored by: Blomu, Boreal, Chillaz, Climbskin Spain and Petzl


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15 Nov, 2015
Fine effort. I think there was some discrepancy about the final boulder problem too, with suggestions from font 7a+ to 7c. Interestingly according to 8a he got 25 hands off, knee bar rests!
16 Nov, 2015
I hear some climbers have been known to wear shoes. Are these clean ascents?
16 Nov, 2015
How do we know whether Bernabe climbed it without knee pads? People have been making their own for ages in this area of the world.
16 Nov, 2015
Ondra is wearing a kneepad on the route on the back of the catalunya guide, the BD ad.
16 Nov, 2015
Don't know if this makes a difference or not, but here's what he said on the topic; Translated from the Spanish interview, in the Desnivel magazine;...''Since I don't like (feel comfortable) wearing kneepads, I wear a kneepad just for the first part (up to the middle) of the route, where there's a better rest point for me to took the kneeepad off and climb to the top'' In another paragraph he comes to say that the kneebars don't make for real (good) rests, being very tiring on the abs. Though is safe to think he found them of some use, otherwise he wouldn't used none... In my eyes there's no problem as long as anyone (claiming an ascent) don't lie or leave relevant details out, such as kneepads, crack-gloves, pre-placed gear, etc...
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