UKC

Dani Andrada repeats Chilam Balam, ~9b

Dani Andrada on Chilam balam, ~9b, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain, 91 kb
Dani Andrada on Chilam balam, ~9b, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain
© David Lopez
Dani Andrada has repeated Barnabé Fernandez' Chilam Balam, ~9b, at Villanueva del Rosario just north of Malaga in southern Spain.

Dani's ascent was the fourth, after Fernandez (2003), Adam Ondra (2011) and Seb Bouin (2015). He and Edu Marin have been working the route for a very long time now and according to reports from the crag, they're making it look very easy up to the final few moves, which is the redpoint crux.

No matter how well you have the route dialed, unexpected things can happen though as the rock in parts of the route is quite loose. On the last attempt before his successful one, Dani decided to head butt a tufa, or perhaps it was the other way around. Either way, the tufa came off and he got a nasty cut. 

Being the máquina that he is, this didn't move him much though and on his next try, he managed to reach the top of the 80 m route.

Fernandez originally suggested 9b+ but Adam Ondra felt low end 9b was closer to the money and Seb Bouin said 9a+/b, Previously, Dani has said that he feels it deserves 9a+ rather than 9b, but that was before he had done the whole thing.

Dani Andrada, 98 kb
Dani Andrada
© David Lopez
Now, according to Desnivel, he agrees with Seb and calls it "9a+/b or hard 9a+". He also says he found no less than 25 no-hands-rests, and that the redpoint took 1h 5 min.

Edu Marin is also very close now and any attempt could be the last, successful, one.

Photos by David Lopez

Dani Andrada is sponsored by: Blomu, Boreal, Chillaz, Climbskin Spain and Petzl



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