The story of two worlds, ~8C, by Martin Stránik

18th November, 2015

This has been read 8,116 times

Martin Stránik on The story of two worlds, ~8C, Cresciano, Switzerland © Martin Stránik/On Off Productions — Martin Stránik on The story of two worlds, ~8C, Cresciano, Switzerland
© Martin Stránik/On Off Productions

Martin Stránik has repeated The story of two worlds, ~8C, David Graham's sit down start to The Dagger on the Dreamtime boulder at Cresciano, Switzerland.
The story of two worlds was quite a great process over five days. I started with working on The Dagger and after two days it was done. After I tried the first moves of "Story" and though that I would be able to make a fast ascent, but temperature was not on my side... Every day I woke up early in the morning to give some serious attemps, but I wasn't even close.

Finally yeasterday, the temperature dropped and it was something different and much "easier". Now the problem was not a link to The Dagger but connected with all The Dagger moves. You know it is quite a long boulder...

Finally I was lucky to send it. I think that it is a soft 8C right now with all the beta there is, but still harder than 8B+.

It's interesting how this problem has gone from "hard 8C or even 8C+", via "the benchmark for 8C" to "soft 8C", and difficult to know how much of this change is due to new beta and how much is a widening of the 8C-grade.

Martin Stránik is sponsored by: High Point, Scarpa and Singing Rock

This post has been read 8,116 times

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Comments

stp

21 Nov, 2015

Its not just new beta but the fact that beta for most of these hard problems can be accessed these days from almost anywhere. If you've got a smartphone with you, you can probably find numerous videos online for problems like this. You can watch in microscopic detail the subtleties of how each move is done. It's interesting to see how the internet is affecting climbing - not something you would think was likely to happen.

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