Night Fury - New IX,9 on Ben Nevis for Dave MacLeod

© Helen Rennard

Dave MacLeod reports on his blog about his desperate sounding and steep looking Ben Nevis first ascent of Night Fury (IX,9) with Helen Renndard:

Dave MacLeod on Night Fury (IX,9) Look at the angle of the hexes on his harness!
© Helen Rennard

"I walked into the Ben with Helen Rennard to try a new route on the walls right of Echo Wall, where we had already added a hard new route here last season. After getting through the initial hard section, I found myself at the foot of a smooth corner choked with ice. I knew it was going to be hard to protect and moved up gingerly, working hard to try and find a crucial runner...

"...The gear was mostly rubbish, but one sort of okay cam convinced me not to rig an abseil straight away. I hung in for ages, totally pumped trying to place a small ice hook. After countless attempts I finally got it to at least not fall out, but it was clearly rubbish. I was unsure what to do. A fall from over the lip would end up on the slab below the belay and it looked hard, if only for a short way.

Eventually I switched my brain off and committed, arms on the last of their reserves. I am still here to write this, so I didn’t make any mistakes."


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People in the wider world of climbing tend to hear about my climbing through the well known films E11 or Echo Wall or my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same...

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8 Mar, 2016
I'm intrigued - if the gear is rubbish what do you rig an abseil from ?
8 Mar, 2016
I imagine you retreat to the bottom of the corner and abseil from there, as opposed to climbing above the rubbish gear for some way. Or something like that. jcm
8 Mar, 2016
He most likely means ab off from the hanging belay (the quotes miss out bits from the blog).
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