UKC

Night Fury - New IX,9 on Ben Nevis for Dave MacLeod

Dave MacLeod reports on his blog about his desperate sounding and steep looking Ben Nevis first ascent of Night Fury (IX,9) with Helen Renndard:

photo
Dave MacLeod on Night Fury (IX,9) Look at the angle of the hexes on his harness!
© Helen Rennard

"I walked into the Ben with Helen Rennard to try a new route on the walls right of Echo Wall, where we had already added a hard new route here last season. After getting through the initial hard section, I found myself at the foot of a smooth corner choked with ice. I knew it was going to be hard to protect and moved up gingerly, working hard to try and find a crucial runner...

"...The gear was mostly rubbish, but one sort of okay cam convinced me not to rig an abseil straight away. I hung in for ages, totally pumped trying to place a small ice hook. After countless attempts I finally got it to at least not fall out, but it was clearly rubbish. I was unsure what to do. A fall from over the lip would end up on the slab below the belay and it looked hard, if only for a short way.

Eventually I switched my brain off and committed, arms on the last of their reserves. I am still here to write this, so I didn’t make any mistakes."
 

 

Dave is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Clifbar, GORE-TEX and Mountain Equipment



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