UKC

New Two-Pitch E9 7a for Dave MacLeod in Glen Nevis

© Dave MacLeod

Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of a new two-pitch E9 at Steall Gorge Crags, Glen Nevis, which he has named Out for Blood (E9 7a). The first pitch is graded E8 6c and the second E9 7a.

For many years, Dave had put off trying the line as he didn't think there were enough holds on the crux pitch. He had hoped to put some time into the line last October, but wet weather prevented any progress. In a YouTube video, he explained his process of climbing the route. He said:

'It was Jules Lines who encouraged me to finally get on this project after he had briefly tried the first pitch - also a hard piece of climbing.'

Last week, Dave returned to clean the line and scope out the holds. The route receives sunlight all day in clear conditions, and Dave was concerned that he had left it too late in the season to climb.

The first E8 section involves unprotected 7b climbing up to a pocket, which takes three crucial pieces of gear for the first crux. Dave commented in his YouTube video:

'In isolation none of them are inspiring, but together I'd be confident enough to make hard moves above them. The important thing is to get all three in within 10 seconds or so before you start to get pumped on the right hand crimp.'

To save time, Dave attached the pieces of gear to his harness using finger tape to save a few seconds. Dave said:

'This worked well - all of them went in without faff and there were no excuses not to attempt the crux. I was of course feeling the pressure to lead the E9 second pitch so that I wouldn't have to do it again!'

On his last top-rope session, Dave found a sky hook placement to "take the edge off" leading this top pitch. As he arranged the gear, clouds provided welcome shade and a breeze.

'Thankfully a cold easterly wind and a good skyhook placement were on my side,' he said.

'Hopefully I can do this again next week,' Dave added cryptically at the end of his YouTube video.

Dave adds this new E9 to a long list of first ascents up to E11, including Rhapsody E11 7a at Dumbarton Rock, and the ungraded Echo Wall on Ben Nevis.


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People in the wider world of climbing tend to hear about my climbing through the well known films E11 or Echo Wall or my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same...

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15 May, 2023

I wonder if the name has anything to do with the midges? They were definitely out in Knapdale recently.

15 May, 2023

Unfortunately they are also starting to come out in Glen Nevis. I have the bites to prove it.

17 May, 2023

Out in Ballachulish as of Monday and in Oban for a week or so.. Dunkeld yesterday was OK though.. nasty blighters :-)

Great climb and footage too!

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