UKC

VIDEO: Sisu Masters 2016

Jimmy Webb on Nalle Hukkataival's problem in the Sisu Masters 2016, 67 kb
Jimmy Webb on Nalle Hukkataival's problem in the Sisu Masters 2016
© Björn Pohl
Six World class climbers set one problem each, work them for an hour or so, and then compete on them two days later - that's the Sisu Masters in Helsinki, Finland.

This year's edition featured three Americans;

Jimmy Webb

Daniel Woods

Dave Graham

and three local heroes;

Nalle Hukkataival

Andy Gullsten

Ilari Kelloniemi

As the athletes could set pretty much what they felt like, the result was six very different problems which each suited the setter's particular style. In terms of difficulty, most of them probably weighed in around the ~8A mark, with Jimmy's and Nalle's perhaps being a tad harder than that.

The video below shows most of the action.

And here is the full replay

While in Finland, the guys couldn't resist (not that they tried very hard) to sample some of the local rock. As reported previously, Jimmy, who spent more than a week in Helsinki, managed to make super impressive flash of The Globalist, ~8B+, at Sipoo, but he also tried Nalle's long time project at Lappnor.

After quickly realizing Nalle's method would never work for him, he found a foothold far to the right, which made the problem slightly more possible. In fact, this new hold changed Nalle's method somewhat as well.

Daniel Woods on the Lappnor project, Lappnor, Finland, 254 kb
Daniel Woods on the Lappnor project, Lappnor, Finland
© Jimmy Webb/Björn Pohl

What makes the Lappnor project next level hard is not so much the steepness of the wall and the size of the holds. It's more about the lack of friction which forces you to keep very close to the wall which in turn makes the slick foot holds feel even worse than they would otherwise be. It's a short very pure power problem.

Daniel also tried the project briefly and although it's a style that he really masters, he agreed that this thing is harder than anything he had tried. Not impossible mind you, but really, really hard.

While in Finland I seized the opportunity and made two new podcasts. One with Daniel & Dave and one with Jimmy, so in the not so distant future you can hear all about the Finnish experience and more if you feel like it.


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