VIDEO: Sisu Masters 2016

Jimmy Webb on Nalle Hukkataival's problem in the Sisu Masters 2016 © Björn Pohl
Jimmy Webb on Nalle Hukkataival's problem in the Sisu Masters 2016
© Björn Pohl
Six World class climbers set one problem each, work them for an hour or so, and then compete on them two days later - that's the Sisu Masters in Helsinki, Finland.

This year's edition featured three Americans;

Jimmy Webb

Daniel Woods

Dave Graham

and three local heroes;

Nalle Hukkataival

Andy Gullsten

Ilari Kelloniemi

As the athletes could set pretty much what they felt like, the result was six very different problems which each suited the setter's particular style. In terms of difficulty, most of them probably weighed in around the ~8A mark, with Jimmy's and Nalle's perhaps being a tad harder than that.

The video below shows most of the action.

And here is the full replay

While in Finland, the guys couldn't resist (not that they tried very hard) to sample some of the local rock. As reported previously, Jimmy, who spent more than a week in Helsinki, managed to make super impressive flash of The Globalist, ~8B+, at Sipoo, but he also tried Nalle's long time project at Lappnor.

After quickly realizing Nalle's method would never work for him, he found a foothold far to the right, which made the problem slightly more possible. In fact, this new hold changed Nalle's method somewhat as well.

Daniel Woods on the Lappnor project, Lappnor, Finland © Jimmy Webb/Björn Pohl
Daniel Woods on the Lappnor project, Lappnor, Finland
© Jimmy Webb/Björn Pohl

What makes the Lappnor project next level hard is not so much the steepness of the wall and the size of the holds. It's more about the lack of friction which forces you to keep very close to the wall which in turn makes the slick foot holds feel even worse than they would otherwise be. It's a short very pure power problem.

Daniel also tried the project briefly and although it's a style that he really masters, he agreed that this thing is harder than anything he had tried. Not impossible mind you, but really, really hard.

While in Finland I seized the opportunity and made two new podcasts. One with Daniel & Dave and one with Jimmy, so in the not so distant future you can hear all about the Finnish experience and more if you feel like it.

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7 Apr, 2016
In the pic it says: Jimmy Webb on Nalle Hukkataival's problem. I thought that was Dave Graham's problem at the end. It was also the only problem that Graham almost managed to complete, so it would be surprising if it was Nalle's problem rather than his own? Interesting comp format. Do the Finns challenge a different country each year? I felt a bit sorry for Dave Graham. The other guys just seemed a lot stronger. And how long before the Lappnor Project goes down I wonder? Look forward to the interviews though.
7 Apr, 2016
Dave Graham's was the black one starting to the right of the orange one jimmy Webb is pictured on. The black problem traversed left through nalle's though. Looks like a few months bolt clipping with Daniel woods has weakened the pair of them a bit!
8 Apr, 2016
I'm not 100% certain but I don't think it has been done every year. There was one when I still lived in Helsinki, 2013, but not sure if they have done them since. Anyway, that was by invite and I think the idea was it was Nalle's hard friends. I guess a lot will ride on who they can afford to invite.
8 Apr, 2016
This was the second edition of the Sisu Masters. In 2013 the athletes were: Nalle Hukkataival, Kilian Fischhuber, Andy Gullsten, Dave Graham Anna Stöhr, Anna Laitinen, Melissa Le Nevé, Eevi Jaakkola The format is not 100% set in stone as it's mostly about creating a nice "bouldering jam" and the US vs. Finland happened more or less by coincidence.
8 Apr, 2016
Dave Graham is just weaker than the others. His over-reliance on knee pads and lack of systematic training/effort is the main culprit not climbing 9a's and 9a+'s. For Alex Megos Thor's Hammer is the hardest 9a+ he's done. Dave Graham climbed it fairly quickly (for him) but the has struggled for weeks with the low-end Papichulo which has no knee bar rests. I don't want to rag on the guy but there is no need for made-up excuses and sugarcoating the truth.
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