UKC

Achemine, E9 6c by Barbara Zangerl

© Babzi Zangerl

Babsi Zangerl getting some serious airtime off Achemine, E9 6c, Dumbarton Rock  © Babzi Zangerl
Babsi Zangerl getting some serious airtime off Achemine, E9 6c, Dumbarton Rock
© Babzi Zangerl
Babsi Zangerl has repeated Scotland's first E9, Dave MacLeod's Achemine (E9 6c), E9 6c, at Dumbarton Rock. Dave made the first ascent in 2001 and as far as I can tell, this was the first repeat!

From Babsi's instagram: After two big falls I was on the way to the top of Achemine. I think it is the first repetition.

At the time Dave described the route:

The route is called Achemine, which is a french word meaning to go forwards and the grade is E9 6c. It is a direct finish to Chemin De Fer, but I think the label "direct finish" doesn't really do the line justice. I think the headwall above Chemin De Fer describes it better as there are a lot of moves up there! I first tried it last September and it took two days on the shunt to be able to do the individual moves. I worked on it sporadically last autumn and this spring, but still couldnt link it on the top rope. I finally did link it this September and got on the lead a few days later. I figured I'd better get straight on the lead as I new I could never get to the stage of top roping it every go, I might as well get on the sharp end and if I was lucky, it would be done. I reckon it is F8b to top rope, being harder than Digital Quartz and Voodoo Magic, and miles harder than things like Spiral Tribe or Cease Fire.

Babsi is one of the most accomplished allround climbers in the world and has bouldered 8A+/B (Pura vida), sport climbed 8c+ (Harry's dirty brother), climbed 8b+/c multi pitch (Bellavista) and E9/10 trad (Prinzip Hoffnung).

She was the first female to complete the famous Alpine trilogy:

Kaisers neue Kleider (Wilder Kaiser AUT) (6c+,7c+,8a+/b,7b+,8b+,8a,6b,8b+,6c)

Silbergeier (Rätikon CH) (8b,7c+,8a+,7a+,8b+,7c+)

End of Silence (Berchtesgaden DE) (7a+,6c,6a+,6a,7b+,7c+,7b,8b,8b/+,7c,7a+)

 

Barbara Zangerl is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Climbskin, La Sportiva, Smith Optics and Sterling Rope


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6 May, 2016
Excellent news, great to see this route get a 2nd. Interesting that both Rhapsody and now Achemine received their 2nd ascents by visiting foreign climbers ( and by foreign, I don't just mean up from Sheffield!).
6 May, 2016
Awesome, about time something as accessible and frequently in condition as Achemine got a repeat. I wonder if anyone's given any attention to 'Direquiem', which gains the top of Rhapsody from higher on Requiem? We need a Brit on it to see if we've got another E10 or just another measly E9.
6 May, 2016
Witnessed this last night at Dumby. A truly impressive, controlled bit of climbing and glad they got some decent weather at last.
6 May, 2016
The next variation should probably be called Te Deum.
6 May, 2016
Quite clever. How dare you.
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