Rustam Gelmanov has made the first repeat of Daniel Woods' 2010 test piece Hypnotized minds, Font 8C+, on the Veritas boulder in the Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Like many, Rustam took the opportunity to spend some time in Colorado after the Vail World Cup and used it in the best way possible. Mostly known as one of the best competition climbers, he has a reputation of being able to crimp miniscule holds and then pulling on them as if they were jugs. A superpower which must have been quite handy on Hypnotized minds. The successful attempt came on his second go of the third session according to Eddie Fowke/The Circuit Climbing.
Eddie Fowke: It was such an impressive send. He rested all day, then pulled on the holds a few times, got on and almost sent first try. 8C+ warm up...
So much for long progressive warm ups.. Crazy. His feet did not leave the ground until he was trying the problem.
The problem was originally given ~8C, but over the years since the first ascent Daniel has repeated many ~8C's in various styles and come to the conclusion it's harder than all of them and thus very likely to be ~8C+. When it comes to rock these things are never written in stone however and it will be interesting to hear what Rustam says, although, saying that, he is not exactly the most experienced outdoor boulderer out there...
Photo and video by Eddie Fowke/The Circuit
Rustam Gelmanov is sponsored by: Five Ten and Red Bull