18 year-old Aidan Roberts from Ambleside has made the second ascent of John Gaskins' Traci Lords SDS 8B+ at the Lad Stones, Coniston Boulders.
Traci Lords sit 8b+/V14 One day of good weather brought undoubtedly my best climbing day ever! Got this done then put up a logical start to manpower (avoids pulling on off a rock) weighing in at hard 8b/v13 and topped the day off with a flash of Booze cruise 8a/v11. Traci took me about 3 sessions but found this whole new beta at the end of my second, pleased to get it done! Very nearly dropped the easy finish as you can see, would've been a heartbreaker if I hadn't already done it twice.... Thanks to the support from: @thenorthface @lyonequipment @beastmakers @usefulcoach @edenrockclimbing
The problem is a pure line of small holds and tension moves. The sit moves are the crux and add only two moves to the stand, but are very low percentage and powerful, including a small right hand two-finger crimp.
Aidan told UKC:
'Linking these moves leaves a tired right hand for an otherwise relatively easy stand (about 7C/+) but a nice victory swing all the same. The problem has been made easier since a hold break on the left hand stand start holds but I think the grade of 8B+ feels fair, we’ll see with time.'
Aidan had previously had two short sessions on the problem using different beta involving a heel hook. At the end of the second session, he found a more basic method that suited him better, but was far more finger intensive.
'Good weather is rare at the moment so I was keen to get it done between the rains, after about two hours I had three good goes where I dropped the last move twice before topping it. It’s nice to get such a historic problem done regardless of its history of past ascents.'
Later in the day, Aidan also established a logical start to Manpower, weighing in at 8B as well as flashing Booze Cruise 8A.
In 2015, Aidan became European Champion following a win in the European Youth Bouldering Championships in L'Argentière-la-Bessée, France (UKC News Report). In the same year, he made the third ascent of Neil Gresham's Freakshow 8c at Malham Cove as his first 'proper' sport route! (UKC News Report).