UKC

Nayuta, ~8C+, first ascent by Dai Koyamada

© Ikuko Serata

Dai Koyamada on Nayuta,~8C+, Gero, Japan  © Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada on Nayuta,~8C+, Gero, Japan
© Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of his super project at Gero in Japan. The name of the problem is Nayuta and the suggested grade ~8C+.

The way I understand it, Nayuta follows the line of Nehanna(Nirvana), ~8B+/C, (FA 3 June 2016) and then links straight into Puresemu, ~8B+ (FA 12 June 2016).

Dai discovered the project two years ago and says that it has been his main goal ever since, even though he, at the time, couldn't even imagine himself linking the two very difficult problems. He realised he needed to improve his endurance while keeping his strength, so he trained hard at the gym, went to the Frankenjura to climbe routes and continued working his other projects in Japan.

4 April, after several days of concentrated effort, Dai could make the first ascent of his hardest problem to date.

And while shouting, the right hand grasped the last big hold firmly.

I stood up on the rock and sat down and looked up at the sky, I saw a beautiful moon.

That time came at last.

Dai Koyamada is sponsored by: Beal, Black Diamond, Evolv, Flashed, Inga and Musashi


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