UKC

The Warrior's RoofVideo

© Screenshot from Christophe Margot

13 years after belaying Didier Berthod on the first ascent, it was Fred Moix' turn to tie in on the sharp end and repeat Greenspit, an 8b+ roof crack in the Valle dell'Orco, Italy.

Christophe Margot was there to capture the ascent and also managed to get Didier Berthod onboard.

For Fred, who is better known as a very strong boulderer, it was only his second ever trad route.


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21 Sep, 2017
Great vid with some really nice footage. Have to say that I thought the music seemed like it would be more appropriate for something like Lord of the Rings though. Interesting that he redpointed it placing the gear on lead. To strip all the gear out of a horizontal roof like that must be a huge faff and a lot of effort. Not surprised Didier went for the pinkpoint originally.
21 Sep, 2017
Loved this video - so beautiful. Am amazed it doesn't seem to have garnered much attention on here. Hanging the crimps seemed a stopper move. But hey, he's a boulderer! Would be great to see video footage of Laurence and Stevie on this. Like jamming into heaven. Mick
21 Sep, 2017
Really? I'm Afraid I found the whole thing somewhat pretentiously overblown and slightly irritating. It left me wanting to see a proper real time single shot of the whole ascent without music of what is clearly amazing climb.
22 Sep, 2017
Absolutely. And it's not a route, it's a boulder problem.
22 Sep, 2017
I thought it was an instructional video for cam placing
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