UKC

Mark Rankine repeats Divine Moments of Truth E10 7a

© Russell Lovett

Mark Rankine has made the first repeat of Franco Cookson's Divine Moments Of Truth at Kay Nest, in the North York Moors. Franco graded the line E10 7a - or H10 as used by Franco to indicate a headpoint ascent - after completing the route in 2015 (UKC news report). Mark discovered an alternative dyno method, which avoids the crimpy crux sequence and potentially lowers the grade.

Mark spanned-out on the sloping sidepulls before the dyno.  © Russell Lovett
Mark spanned-out on the sloping sidepulls before the dyno.
© Russell Lovett

Franco quite literally roped Mark into trying the line earlier this year. Mark told UKC:

'I was very happy bouldering around on some easy slabs in the sun when Franco bounded over, urging me to try Divine Moments of Truth on a toprope he'd just set up. After a bit of flailing around I had managed to string the moves together, bypassing the desperate crux pull with a knacky dyno, but decided it was an unjustifiable lead and put it to the back of my mind.'

However, something about the line intrigued Mark and he spent a considerable amount of time at Kay Nest over the summer, clearing the heather from the mid-height ledge to reveal a cluster of shallow cam placements on the left. The line suddenly appeared less daunting. He commented:

'After tidying up the landing zone I convinced myself that a fall from the crux, with a fast belayer, would deposit you just above the ground where it slopes down to the left. I could now justify my dyno sequence, avoiding the original desperate crux.'

Regarding the difficulty and danger of the line, Mark suggested an alternative grade for his method:

'For those who are interested in the numbers, the original sequence is in the region of Font 7B+/C with an almost certain ground fall from 15m. The dyno is knacky and hard to grade but in the region of Font 7A and a fast belayer may keep you off the floor. The lower wall is steadier but a bit pumpy. It's harder than anything else I've done. Perhaps E9 6c?'

photo
Mark on the crux dyno.
© Mike Cheque

The line was previously bolted and the minimal protection used by Franco to free the route included micro tricams, micro wires and a skyhook. On witnessing Mark's ascent - and filming it for his upcoming film Hard Sand - Franco was dumbfounded. He told UKC:

'I think Mark's ascent is pretty amazing. It's a big task working a route up at Kay Nest and I think it's the magic of the place that has kept dragging him back weekend after weekend. Just when you think trad climbing is dead: bang.

'Rather than the original rancid crimp sequence, he did the crux as a wild pop, which I'd discounted as too bold when I did it. Remember, this is a guy who went into the crux of Gaia onsight and pathed the Angel's Share. Watching him a large number of metres above his gear, both hands off, reliant on only the wind to catch a finger jug, is one of those moments when you stop looking though the lens and crumble in terror. Mad. Very Scary to watch.'

A dark horse with an eye for obscure lines, Mark is a cleaner of many dirty routes and is also actively involved in the Peak Bolt Fund.


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11 Oct, 2017
Massive respect. Dodgy dyno with a potential ground fall from 15 metres... Sweet christ.
11 Oct, 2017
Excellent Mark, looking forward to seeing this, you're a valuable member of the climbing community.
11 Oct, 2017
Given that no-one is going to go for such a dyno on-sight (are they?), and given that E grades are supposedly for the on-sight (yes, I know they're not really at those sorts of grades), it would likely not reduce the E grade, only the H grade.
11 Oct, 2017
Didn't James pearson use the dyno method on End of the Affair? Good effort Mark. Out of interest in the picture on the report looking towards the wall, how far out of the bottom of the hot is the ground. Would be good to see for context with the gear.
11 Oct, 2017
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