UKC

VIDEO: Udo Neumann: Analysis of Modern Bouldering Competitions

Former German Bouldering Team coach, sports scientist and climbing author Udo Neumann has released an interesting video analysing the technical elements of movement that determine success (or failure) in modern day bouldering competitions, using the recent Studio Bloc Masters near Frankfurt in Germany as study material.

Neumann addresses the complexity of dynamic movement - 'crossing gaps' - that has changed with the advent of three dimensional volumes and more intricate setting, which require greater consideration of directional forces and momentum.

The event is an international open competition, which attracted many IFSC circuit competitors looking for a pre-season test of their current form. Team GB's Hannah Slaney made finals and placed 5th in a strong field. Alexei Rubtsov and Miho Nonaka won the competition.



Forums 23 comments

whilst I normally like these side by side comparisons, I thought the EpicTV compilation far more exciting: https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/studio-bloc-masters-finals-2018-%7C-climbing-daily-ep1138/606960    
Think I saw some of it. Not sure I'm a huge fan of modern comp bouldering. I have watched a few more recently though, thinking about it. Maybe I'll become a convert. I like the video here, I thought if I watched it a...
I wasn't being entirely serious, but the sporting analysis you mention refers to the people doing the talking. Graphs and tables could show analysis, but I think we're trying to discuss the video presented here and...
I don't see that's the distinction. You can present analysis in different ways.... at work I might just provide some slides with graphs and tables on them. It's analysis whether I talk through/comment in writing or...
Just because it doesn't have words, doesn't mean it's not analysis. It looks at difficult moves and compares climbers on them. Much like video analysis for rugby or football - they pull together relevant clips in a way...
Possibly, and to some extent I agree you can deduce quite a bit from looking at the side by side images critically. But if I clicked on a link promising an analysis of market trends, and was presented only with raw...

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