Former German Bouldering Team coach, sports scientist and climbing author Udo Neumann has released an interesting video analysing the technical elements of movement that determine success (or failure) in modern day bouldering competitions, using the recent Studio Bloc Masters near Frankfurt in Germany as study material.
Neumann addresses the complexity of dynamic movement - 'crossing gaps' - that has changed with the advent of three dimensional volumes and more intricate setting, which require greater consideration of directional forces and momentum.
The event is an international open competition, which attracted many IFSC circuit competitors looking for a pre-season test of their current form. Team GB's Hannah Slaney made finals and placed 5th in a strong field. Alexei Rubtsov and Miho Nonaka won the competition.
Comments
Interesting vid.
Has anyone seen Udo's video on Climbing Technique? I was wondering if it is worth watching?
That's not an analysis of anything. It's just a load of slow video clips and is quite possibly the most stupid and pretentious thing I've ever seen.
Agree. It sounds like it is going to be an in-depth analysis, but ends up saying nothing that isn't completely obvious. Plus the music sent me almost to sleep.
I don’t understand, this would have taken effort to make but does nothing?
Expectation: I was expecting something insightful, possibly a critique of methods and approaches leading to success.
Reality: Split screen footage with dry ambient techno-pop and no critical analysis.
I agree, and if kinaesthetic beauty was my expectation I would have appreciated it more. But it wasn't promoted as beautiful; it was promoted as analysis, and since I couldn't find any analysis whatsoever I was left disappointed.