Austrian alpinist David Lama (28) has completed the first ascent of Lunag Ri's main summit (6907m) on the border between Nepal and Tibet, solo and after two unsuccessful attempts in the last three years. In 2015, Lama and Conrad Anker reached 300m short of the summit after a three day ascent. The next year, following Anker's heart attack at 5800m, Lama continued alone and was forced to retreat 250m below the summit.
On Instagram, Lama described his emotions on summitting alone:
'Having arrived at the very front of the summit spur, I stand still. It feels strange that suddenly I have no more further to go. I sink down to my knees, tired and happy, even though I wouldn't be able to express it that way right now. Briefly I think about Conrad. He is the only one I would have liked to share this moment with.'
Anker made the decision not to return to the mountain this year due to the emotional impact it would have on his family. He continues to climb, but has vowed not to undertake any more high altitude expedition.
In 2010, Lunag Ri's southeast summit (6812m) was climbed by a French team comprised of Max Belleville, Mathieu Detrie, Mathieu Maynadier and Seb Ratel.
An all-round mountain athlete, Lama has sport climbed 9a and became the first competitor to win both a lead and bouldering World Cup in his first season in 2007. In 2011 he retired from competition climbing to focus on mountaineering. In 2012, Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route (South-East Ridge) of Cerro Torre in Patagonia with Peter Ortner in 24 hours. Alongside the Lunag Ri project, Lama has attempted the unclimbed Annapurna III. After three days on the climb in 2016, Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel retreated from about two thirds of the way up due to poor weather conditions. A second attempt last year was aborted following an acclimatisation ascent of Ama Dablam, where the team decided they were not ready to take on the challenge.
Watch a video of Lama and Anker's journey below:
Comments
How did he take the video? Presumably he carried a drone up with him.
I've been wondering this as well. Quite cool if drones are now light and robust enough that you can carry them with you on such cutting edge ascents. And amazing the altitudes they can work at. Alternatively maybe a cameraman in base camp was flying it?
As a complete aside, isn't this news story a bit behind the curve? Planetmountain reported on this a month ago when it first broke. I know Lama's only just given more details, but a newsflash back at the end of October would've been good. I don't mean to be overly critical of the UKC news team -- just a suggestion!
Summits these days. They're not what they used to be!
Ah yes, I looked up the story of the Polish drone pilots who helped to rescue Rick Allen. They piloted the drone from K2 base camp. Incredible.