FRI NIGHT VID: Martin Keller climbs Ninja Skills Sit Start (Font 8C/+)

Our Friday Night Video this week takes us deep into the world of long-term projects. How far does your perseverance stretch? Three years of effort, over 150 sessions, -6ºC in 50cm of snow, all-night 12-hour sessions, then 25ºC in July. Ninja Skills Sit Down Start was Martin Keller's ultimate nemesis. In this short film, join Martin on his journey as he discovers the secret to unlocking his first ascent of Ninja Skills 8C/8C+.

Nestled in between chestnut trees on a south-facing slope in Sobrio, Switzerland, the 8B+ (V14) stand start for the famous Ninja Skills was first climbed in 2009 by Nalle Hukkataival.


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FA of Ninja Skills Sit Start 8C/+ and multiple 8C FA's

Martin's Athlete Page 12 posts 1 video




10 May

He seems a really nice guy with incredible determination but did anyone else find all the power scream’s a little bit over the top? It seems, post Sharma, that power screaming is the de rigueur thing to do with Ondra taking over as the new scream master. At least Alex Megos tends to be more of the old school silent ninja type!

10 May

He didn't power scream to annoy you but because it enhances his performance. There's an Ondra interview where he's asked about this and he explains that screaming is a way to ensure that he is breathing out at certain high intensity points in time. Some top tennis players also do this. If you don't like it mute the video or better yet go climb 8C in silence and post the vid.

10 May

I don't mind hearing the outpouring of effort in climbing but some (most?) of the time it just seems very much LAM (look at me). There should be a grade barrier, if you're screaming on anything below 8b you need a muzzle, Wim Hof explanation or not.

Ondra screams because if he didn't he'd cry, ask his Mum.

Boulder looks stunning.

11 May

hey there; glad most off you you liked the movie; i think the puzzleglass-guys did a great job capturing the essence off what it means off projecting hard stuff at a personal limit!

just one thing to explain; about that „powerscreams“. i can understand that some people dont like this! but its not always like this. sometimes its more. sometimes its less. its not forced!!! its coming from deep within when i push further then what my mind and body really want to go (at that moment).

the startsequence in ninja is total limit for me physically (absolute limit of my span und power) and mentally (fallen off so many times) - in the endsection i had totally numbed out, therefore my forearms had started to cramp and all my body and mind wanted was to let go! but „i“ wanted to keep going; so that screaming forces my mind and body to push through even though they did not wanted to keep going. it is literally „war“ between my unconscious and concious mind.

that tends to happen especially in long-term (=50+ sessions) projects as you start to know the moves so well your mind is not anymore 100% occupied with climbing and starts to wander (... am i really strong enough today; what if that heel slipps again; that hold felt better last time..) this screaming is in in other language; a (my) coping-strategy to deal with enormous physical and mental stress. thats it - thats all!

try for a few years to push constantly, every few days, at the same piece off rock above your physical and mental limits... let me know how you „deal“ successfuly (so you can use it in your favour for reaching your goal) with that amount off pressure/stress.

Oh for God's sake. *THAT's* what you get from that film?!

jcm

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