UKC

First Ascent of Link Sar by Steve Swenson and Team

© Steve Swenson

The first ascent of Link Sar (7,041m) in the Eastern Karakoram in Pakistan has been made by a group of four American mountaineers: Steve Swenson, Graham Zimmerman, Chris Wright and Mark Richey. The team are still in Pakistan with no further details of their climb as yet.

Link Sar (7,041m)  © Steve Swenson
Link Sar (7,041m)
© Steve Swenson

According to a report on Rock and Ice, the team notified family members last Tuesday that they had summitted, reached below Camp 3 and were continuing to descend.

This was Swenson's third attempt at Link Sar, which until now had remained one of the last great unclimbed problems in mountaineering. Swenson, Zimmerman and Wright last attempted the line in 2017. On their return, Swenson wrote on Instagram: 'It's a complex and dangerous mountain, and we didn't reach the top. But we made a significant effort to find a safe route that avoids the objective hazards. We plan to return so we can finish what we started.' In the same season, Tom Ballard and Daniele Nardi - who died while attempting to climb Nanga Parbat earlier this year (UKC news) - reached 6,100m climbing via the northeast face before turning back.

Link Sar is situated in the Charakusa Valley between K6 and K7. Its name literally means 'linking' peak between these two mountains. Compared to its neighbouring peaks it has seen very little attention – mainly due to the fact that it is hard to even see in its entirety, let alone approach.

In July 2015, British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman made the first ascent of the West summit of Link Sar, 6,938m, climbing the Northwest Face via a route they named 'Fever Pitch' (UKC news). Watch a film about their expedition below.

More information to follow.


This post has been read 10,566 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest