Serendipity (Font 8B+) for Mat Wright

© Marsha Balaeva

Mat Wright has climbed Serendipity (Font 8B+) at Impossible Roof near  Roche Abbey. The problem was first climbed by Dan Varian as a sit start to Mike Adam's Serenity (8B). Mat climbed the stand back in February, which was his first 8B.

The problem was first climbed by Dan Varian in 2009  © Marsha Balaeva
The problem was first climbed by Dan Varian in 2009
© Marsha Balaeva

Serendipity involves some outrageously thin undercuts through a steep roof. It adds around Font 8A of difficulty into the stand start. Mat describes the climb as 'very knacky' and found it essential to execute every move perfectly on each attempt. The crux was still a low percentage affair:

'I had a few sessions returning to the roof with some friends throughout the summer, I was feeling strong at the time and decided to start giving the additional moves of Serendipity a go. After some patience, I figured it out and was able to do it, but it was very low percentage. 18 sessions and 10 months later, I topped it out!'

Serendipity was Mat's first Font 8B+  © Marsha Balaeva
Serendipity was Mat's first Font 8B+
© Marsha Balaeva

This tops off a fantastic year for Mat who also managed to climb his first 8c+: Evolution at  Raven Tor (Miller's Dale). Clearly at home on limestone, Mat's aim for next year is Ben Moon's Hubble and sees it as a 'logical next step.'

We'll almost certainly be hearing from Mat in 2020.

Below is a video of Mat climbing Serenity, the stand start to Serendipity:

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Mat Wright

Mat Wright has quickly become a very capable sport climber, having climbed 8c+ in his first four years of climbing. He's already ticked Evolution, Devolution and Mecca Extension, so...

Mat's Athlete Page 5 posts 1 video

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10 Dec, 2019

Really impressive. Watched Mat warm up on my long term project at the Tor back in the summer. Strong and fit but also humble and down to earth. Really happy he's ticked his project too.

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