The next instalment of the BMC Respect the Rock campaign takes us to the Peak District. Seasoned boulderer, Jon Partridge, takes us through crag etiquette, from checking restrictions on crags, responsible parking, erosion, and the need to leave no trace.
Check out our previous Respect the Rock series of articles below. We cover chalk use, the countryside code and the sad example of Whitehouses, where many holds were hammered off, likely in response to poor behaviour from climbers. The incident was a wake up call to climbers that frequently overlooked practices like considerate parking, courtesy to local people, closing gates and avoiding crags close to houses for lantern sessions. There are many similar examples where following basic rules can ensure access for years to come.
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The latest video in the BMC's Respect the Rock series is here and this time we're with Louis Parkinson at Stanage. The iconic climbing area is home to some of the country's best trad climbing and bouldering, but it's important that climbers and other users give it...
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The Peak District Bouldering areas are already trashed beyond hope. Unless you were bouldering before guides years ago, you have no comparison and cannot appreciate the devastation. Last year I went to Cratcliffe, took in the full extent of the damage and left. Similar story with the Plantation.
There are hundreds of other areas many of which desperately need traffic. I think we need to revise advice on brushing at popular venues, the damage is so bad.
There is a lot of wear in some places but that is hardly a reason to not follow the advice in the video.
The only thing I would add is think of other visitors. I've been at the Roaches when gangs boulderers have had masses of pads all over the paths, so walkers, families and so on had to pick their way around them. Not considerate, not OK.
Neither are bluetooth speakers, in my view, it's the great outdoors FFS. But that's probably more controversial.
Great to see the encouragement to avoid tick marks and instead work to improve route reading. Definitely agree sequence memory and precision are the key to success, especially on long boulders/routes. Well done Jon