Another relatively quiet week globally. Here's a few highlights.
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher climb Odyssee on the Eiger
Earlier this week, Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher completed a one-day ascent of the hardest free-climb on the Eiger: Odyssee. The route has 33-pitches, the hardest of which are 8a+, and it's 1400m long. The pair had previously climbed the route over four days in 2018, but were motivated to return to try such a 'big and intimidating route in just a single day,' according to Barbara.
They returned to the wall in August, reacquainting themselves with the intricacies of the crux pitches and preparing static lines for the film crew. After several days of bad weather, including half a metre of fresh snow on top of the Eiger, they luckily remained positive and went for a one-day push.
They struggled through four wet pitches of 6c+-7c, before climbing the upper section of the route smoothly. With 16 hours elapsed and only three pitches from the top, the weather changed dramatically:
Barbara described the considerable shift in weather: 'It started to hail and rain cats and dogs, as I was in the middle of the second to last pitch. I got soaking wet—with no possible way to reach the next belay and no way to climb down. (No fixed protection on this pitch) I had to improvise and found a good solution to get back to Jacopo. In this situation, we perfectly worked together as a team thanks to all the adventures we experienced together. The temperatures dropped to freezing cold and the water turned into ice. We rappelled 31 pitches in a waterfall.'
Two days later, they were back in the wall and climbed the bottom section of the route three hours faster. There were no surprises this time and the pair found themselves at the top by 5:30pm, having taken 16 hours.
Alex Megos' Road Trip Rampage
Alex has provided a ticklist from the same trip on which he flashed Underground. He has since given his opinion on the grade and believes it is 8c+/9a, which seems to match the consensus on the route which was originally given 8c+.
On his trip, Alex visited Götterwandl, Schleier Wasserfall and Arco. His full ticklist (with his thoughts on the grades) over 5 days of climbing is as follows:
- Hades 9a (8c+?) - 2nd try
- Fonax 8c+ (8c+/9a?) - 5th try
- Lichtjahre 8c+ (8c+/9a?) - 3rd try
- Athene 8c - 2nd try
- Claudio Caffè 8c+ (8c?) - 2nd try
- Underground 8c+/9a - Flash
- Pure Dreaming 9a (8c+/9a? with kneepad) - 2nd try
- Mike Jordan 8b+ - 3rd try
Our short road trip with @dickikorb unfortunately already came to an end. We had a great time though at Götterwandl, at Schleier Wasserfall and in Arco! I got a lot of routes done I always wanted to try. Some of them I was saving for onsights and flashes and thankfully at least one worked out. Here my tick list from 5 days of climbing: - Hades 9a (8c+?) 2nd try - Fonax 8c+ (8c+/9a?) 5th try - Lichtjahre 8c+ (8c+/9a?) 3rd try - Athene 8c 2nd try - Claudio Caffè 8c+ (8c?) 2nd try - Underground 8c+/9a Flash - Pure Dreaming 9a (8c+/9a? with kneepad) 2nd try - Mike Jordan 8b+ 3rd try I put my personal opinion of the grades in brackets. Those are of course just grade suggestions and very subjective. Thanks everyone for making this trip amazing! 🙏🏼 @patagonia_climb @redbullgermany @goretexeu @tenayaclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @dmm_wales @sterlingrope @frictionlabs @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower Pic @michaelmeisl (from the route Lichtjahre).
Video: Webb and Woods' in Ticino
Mellow's second of four videos following the likes of Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods on a trip to Ticino, Switzerland. In this video, Daniel climbs:
- 4-Low (Font 8C) - First Ascent
- Primitivo (Font 8C)
- Off the Wagon Low (8C+) - 3rd Ascent
and Jimmy climbs:
- Roadkill (8C) - 2nd Ascent
- Off the Wagon Low (Font 8C+) - 2nd Ascent
- Poison the Well (Font 8C+) - 2nd Ascent