In this week's round-up, a mix of hard sport and bouldering from Europe and the US...
Hubble 9a by Buster Martin
Buster Martin recently made the tenth ascent of Hubble 9a at Raven Tor in just a handful of sessions. His ascent came less than two weeks after Mat Wright's repeat (UKC News).
Since Mat's successful use of a 'knee-scum' on the line in September, Buster was curious to try this beta for himself. Initially sceptical, Buster eventually came round to the idea. Writing on Instagram, he commented:
'The knee bar? Yeah I used it, and it makes it easier, but not by much. I was apprehensive at first. But once I tried it and got on redpoint I realised that it was more dignified for the history and route to not make it an eliminate. Fortunately it doesn't massivley change the nature of the route, the history and my satisfaction with the send.'
He added: 'Great to climb this piece of history today, a childhood dream realised.'
In November 2019, Buster ticked his first 9a+ with an ascent of Chris Sharma's First Ley in Margalef, becoming only the second Brit to climb a confirmed 9a+.
HUBBLE 🚀 Great to climb this piece of history today, a childhood dream realised. First climbed by @moonclimbing 30 years ago, it was the hardest in the world at the time. A culmination of the sport climbing revolution in the 80s and Sheffield training scenes, and a huge move from Ben and his efforts in pushing the sport forward. Truly ahead of its time, the fact that it's had just 10 ascents over 30 years is testament to that. The most technical piece of climbing I've done and maybe less of a test of power than you may think. It's all in the subtleties and working them out. Yeah, you need to be strong but a twist of the wrist by a few degrees, hips in the right place or getting your fingers on the right ripples on the rock is what really gets you up this thing. The knee bar? Yeah I used it, and it makes it easier, but not by much. I was apprehensive at first. But once I tried it and got on redpoint I realised that it was more dignified for the history and route to not make it an eliminate. Fortunately it doesn't massivley change the nature of the route, the history and my satisfaction with the send. Anyway, more chat about this and grades coming on an interview for climber but now I'm just going to enjoy 😎🍻 Cheers to @will_bosi for coming out to give a catch and to the recent tor team 👊 📷@_andrewmac_ @moonclimbing @petzl_official @lasportivauk
Montserrat Multi-pitch for Edu Marin
Edu Marin has climbed a 6-pitch, 200m 8c+ in Montserrat, naming it Arco Iris. The individual pitches break down as follows: 6a ,6c, 8b+, 8c+, 8b and 8a+. Marin began climbing in the area and completed the climb whilst being belayed by his father.
In 2019, Marin completed one of the hardest multi-pitches in the world in Getu, China; a 304m, 14-pitch route that climbed through a huge roof that he eventually graded 9a+.
The video below shows the crux sequence of the 8c+ pitch of Arco Iris:
Nunca me imagine que en Montserrat podría encontrar una linea tan desplomada y física como "Arco Iris". En el vídeo podéis ver una de las secuencias más exigentes del 4 largo un 8c+ que prácticamente no tiene reposos, tuve que gestionar muy bien todos los movimientos para poder llegar a la sección final de regletas con la suficiente energía para no caer! La fuerza mental también fue clave debido a que el último seguro está unos cuantos metros bajo tus pies! Sin duda Arco Iris es una super world class!! 🎥 @esteban.ele.eme #montserrat❤ ————————- I never imagined that in Montserrat I could find such a overhanged and physical line as "Arco Iris". In the video you can see one of the most demanding sequences of the 4 pitch an 8c + that has practically no rest, I had to manage all the movements very well to reach the final section of grimps with enough energy not to fall! Mental strength was also key because the last bolt is already some metres under your feet. Arco Iris is definitely a world class !! @petzl_official @borealoutdoor @the_treecbd @ttrinternational @ttr.chile
Jakob Schubert on fire in Arco
Jakob Schubert has had an impressive trip to Arco with the Austrian Climbing Team. During the first three days he climbed Thunder Ribes (9a), Zauberfee (8c+), 5 Uve (8c) onsight, Natural Present (8c/+), and Mr Teroldego (8c). He then had a rest day, followed by ascents of Terra Piata (8b+) onsight, and a flash of Zero Tolleranza (8b+/8c). On the sixth day of the trip he climbed Omen Nomen (9a). An utterly incredible ticklist from one of the Olympic favourites.
Enjoying some fun days in Arco with the @austriaclimbing team! I was able to send quite a few things in the last days 💪🏻🥳 Day1 we had a few hours in Massone after the drive and I did a quick ascent of ‚Thunder Ribes' graded 9a which could be 8c+/9a in my opinion. Day 2 I send ‚Zauberfee' [8c+] in Eremo Day 3 I climbed all the hard routes I had left in Narango with ‚5 Uve' [8c onsight], ‚Natural Present' [8c/8c+] and ‚Mr. Teroldego' [8c] Day 4 rest day Day 5 I was able to grab the 3rd ascent of ‚Beginning' [9a or 9a/9a+] in Eremo and finished the day in Pizarra with an onsight of ‚Terra Piata' [8b+] and a first go send of ‚Zero Tolleranza' [8b+/8c]. Day 6 it was finally time for Padaro, one of my favorite crags around Arco, where I send a super cool 9a called ‚Omen Nomen' 😊 Tomorrow we have another rest day followed by our last two climbing days 🔥 Photo by @wilhelmheiko of ‚Beginning' • #rockclimbing #arco #leadclimbing #climbing #feelingstrong #myinnsbruck @mammut_swiss1862 @raiffeisen @innsbrucktourism @lasportivagram @heeressportzentrum @thecrag_worldwide
New 9a+ for Carlo Traversi
Carlo Traversi has made the first ascent of a new 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe. Writing on his Instagram, he said: It's rare to find something that not only challenges you in a way that nothing else has but also happens to be the best piece of rock you've ever climbed on.'
Empath took Traversi around 15 days to clean, bolt and redpoint. The route has already been repeated by Jimmy Webb, who also introduced Traversi to the crag, and Daniel Woods who said that the route was 'power resistance climbing at its finest.' The route was Webb's first 9a+.
Empath 5.15a (First Ascent). It's rare to find something that not only challenges you in a way that nothing else has but also happens to be the best piece of rock you've ever climbed on. Thanks to @jwebxl for tipping me off to this cliff more than 2 years ago and continuing to share your stoke and vision, to Dave Wetmore for being a motivated partner on the initial days of bolting and cleaning, and @marymeck @joshjlowlowy for the working belays and @dawoods89 for the send belay. More details and video to come. Photo by @marymeck. @blackdiamond @fiveten_official @frictionlabs
Fontainebleau spree for Simon Lorenzi
Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi has been on a rampage in Fontainebleau, ticking climbs such as The Big Island (Font 8C). Quoi de Neuf (Font 8B+) and Satan i helvet low (Font 8B+). The 23-year-old made his mark on the competition climbing scene as a youth, winning World Cups in both Lead and Boulder.
"Big Island" 8c (8b+)? was for sure the highlight of my weekend in Fontainebleau ! The boulder itself has been opened by @dave_graham_ as "The island" in 2008. Since that time it has been one of the famous and sickest line in the world of climbing and one of my dream since i'm a kid. In 2010 Vincent Pochon added those two moves and proposed "Big island" 8c. I tried it for the first time on saturday. I knew the betas from all the videos that i watched before. All the moves went down really quickly exept one , the big move to catch the right sloper. But i felt that i could find something new and that fit more my size. After maybe 30 minutes i found this new solution, left heel on the edge and go with the left hand instead of right on the sloper. After few ajustments i did all the section so i knew that i could send quickly! At my second go from the start i fell at the really end of the boulder with the left and crimp to readjust the right sloper just one move before the "final jug"! Unfortunately i spent the end of the day to try and try again but my heel was slipping every time and i got very tired to try the boulder all the day long. Sunday i woke up earlier to take advantage of the good conditions. After a good warm up i sent it at my 4th try of the day! A dream came true! The send gave me a big boost and i finished the day by sending two 8a+ and one 8b at the really end! Concerning the grade i dont think that "Big Island" is really harder than "The Island" . So i don't really understand why 8c for "Big Island" if most of the people say 8b+ for "the island" . Now the sitstart still to be done and i can't wait to try! A video of my weekend is coming soon 🎥 1st 📸 by @orianetollebeek merci pour le weekend 😘 2nd📸 by @lumartinez_93 @adeps_officiel @weareelements.eu @patagonia @petzl_official @scarpa_de @revolutionclimbingteam
Uncut Dave Graham Footage
Mellow have released the uncut footage of Dave Graham climbing his first 9b with an ascent of Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total in the Ali Baba Cave, Rodellar. In the video, Dave can be seen using some pretty new school tactics, from kneepads on both legs, tying in halfway, and someone following him with a portable fan...