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Australian Double Bill - Taipan Wall and Flinders Island Fri Night Vid

© Adventure Types

For this week's Friday Night Video slot, we have a double bill of some extraordinary climbing in Australia. The first film shows the captivating headwall on the Taipan Wall classic Groove Train (f8c) and the second is from Flinders Island in the Bass Strait and follows Simon Bischoff on an ascent of Firetail (f8a).

Groove Train was first climbed by Ben Cossey in 2009 and is undoubtedly one of Australia's most iconic climbs. Famous for big run-outs and exposure, it climbs some of the most immaculate sandstone in the world. In this short film, we follow Jack and his obsession with the route. It's the story of a long-term project that is sadly now on hold.

The second film follows Simon Bischoff on the first ascent of Firetail which boasts some spectacular movement on beautiful granite. The guidebook description for the route is as follows:

'This route is absolutely incredible. Definitely one of the best routes in Tassie for the grade and is a solid benchmark for a three star route! The first ascent saw an all out siege over 15 days and was sent at last light on the last day of the trip in true Flinders Island style. Start up the corner directly to the left of HLS direct. A few cams and wires get you to the first bolt at the first crux. Funky and sustained climbing through two more distinct cruxes. The final crux culminates in a spectacularly desperate throw to a jug.'

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23 Oct

What incredible rock at Flinders Island! Who eats an orange like that though....

23 Oct

I just wondered, watching this and other videos, is it not cheating a bit having the quickdraws already in place? Not wanting to take anything away from the expertise and difficulty of this route, but, really, wouldn't it be 'real climbing' or as near to trad, if you had to place the quickdraw too?

23 Oct

When it’s a red point it is usual to have draws in place.

24 Oct

You're either trolling, or massively missing the point here and having some weird trad ego trip.

24 Oct

Is there some local ethic that prevents the first part of Firetail being bolted? Is the first section part of a trad line?

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